The information being made available includes forward-looking statements that reflect PVH's view as of August 26th, 2015, of future events and financial performance. These statements are subject to risks and uncertainties indicated in the company's SEC filings and the safe harbor statement, including in the press release that is the subject of this call. These risks and uncertainties include PVH's right to change its strategies, objectives, expectations, and intentions, and its need to use significant cash flow to service its debt obligations. Therefore, the company's future results of operations could differ materially from historical results or current expectations. PVH does not undertake any obligation to update publicly any forward-looking statement, including, without limitation, any estimate regarding revenue or earnings. Generally, the financial information and guidance provided is on a non-GAAP basis as defined under SEC rules.
Reconciliations to GAAP are included in the referenced earnings release, which can be found on www.pvh.com and in the company's current report on Form 8-K furnished to the SEC in connection with the release. At this time, I'm pleased to turn the conference over to Manny Chirico, Chairman and CEO of PVH.
Thank you, and good morning, everyone. I'd like to introduce also on the call Mike Shaffer, our Chief Financial Officer and Chief Operating Officer, Dana Telsey, our head of investor relationships and our treasurer, as well as Ken Duane, who runs all of our wholesale businesses throughout North America. Overall, we were quite pleased with our results for the second quarter, which exceeded the top end of our earnings guidance by $0.07. In the second quarter, on a constant currency basis, revenues increased 2% and EPS grew 11%. In the first half of 2015, there were significant sales shifts into the first quarter and out of the second quarter that makes comparisons to the prior year somewhat confusing. From a brand and business perspective, I plan to review the first half results in order to give you a better sense of the underlying sales trends.
Rest assured that Mike Shaffer, in his comments, will quantify and break down all of our second quarter financial results. Overall, for the first six months of 2015, on a constant currency basis, revenue increased 3% and EPS grew 16%. This outperformance was driven by strong underlying results in our international Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger businesses. At the same time, we did see softness in our U.S. Calvin and Tommy retail businesses, where a strong U.S. dollar negatively impacted international tourist traffic and spending in some of our largest stores located in tourist destination locations like Orlando, Las Vegas, Miami, and the New York metropolitan area. At the same time, our retail stores located in U.S. permanent population locations continued to post low to mid-single digit same-store sales increases, which we were very encouraged by.
Moving into each of the brands, Calvin Klein, looking at the first half on a constant currency basis, our CK revenues increased 4% over the prior year's first half, driven by strong performance of our international businesses. From a retail comp sales perspective, international comps increased 6%, while North American comps increased 2% in the quarter and a half, despite being negatively impacted by the international tourist traffic and spending. The Calvin Klein brand continues to gain traction and is increasingly becoming more visible both digitally and at point of sale. Our Fall marketing campaigns are out now with in-store signage and media and marketing launching as we speak. We have major initiatives for Fall Holiday. For jeans, our Meet Me campaign is about sexting and hooking up, where we are digitally connecting with our consumer, which is right up the Calvin Klein DNA.
For women's underwear, our campaign, The Original Sexy, features Kendall Jenner. Both campaigns are creating a lot of buzz around the market, we are connecting with our consumers to drive our commercial business. Globally, the underwear business continues to gain share in each market. Interestingly, our women's underwear sales trends for the first half are outpacing our men's sales trends worldwide. Men's, with our key Spring launches of Intense Power and Air FX, have been very well received with great sell-throughs. For Fall, we just launched our magnetic waistband product with positively early indicators from sales. In North America, we have seen our 2015 men's market share grow by over 200 basis points, with growth across all of our major retail partners. Moving to women's, our Modern Cotton logo product continues to be the big story for women, especially those under the age of 30.
Along with our Tailored bra offering by Regine, in which we have significantly grown over the last 12 months with our push-up styles leading the business in Asia, our Perfectly Fit style leading the business in Europe, and our new Invisibles bra in North America driving sales gains. In North America, we have seen our 2015 women's market share grow by over 100 basis points, with growth across all of our major retail partners. Moving to jeans, we continue to make very good progress around the jeans turnaround in North America and Europe. Women's jeans are still performing better than men's, but our women's business is significantly gaining traction. Over the last 12 months, we have installed in North America over 180 men shops and over 100 women shops, which are performing well above last year's levels.
In men's, we're looking at sales increases in those shops in excess of 30%, and in women's, the sales are in excess of 25% in those shops. We have also expanded our distribution to include Urban Outfitters globally and Topshop in Europe. These two retailers target a younger consumer than our traditional department store consumer. We've delivered some initial capsules for 6.25 And have seen significant sell-throughs with great performance at Urban, we have seen significant reorders and expansion of doors as we move into the Holiday season. We're very excited about this business as it opens our brand up to a much younger consumer. In Europe, we have seen a significant improvement in same-store sales, as well as where we have installed new shops or have refitted our existing base, particularly in London and Rome.
Our sales performance is running well ahead of our comps, which are in the double-digit area. Our Calvin Klein Asia jeans business continues to be very healthy, with solid performance throughout the first half, which is best documented by our comp store performance in that region. We have also seen very strong performance in many of the other Calvin Klein product categories. For the first half of 2015, our Calvin Klein royalty revenue has increased by over 11%. This strong performance is driven by our women's apparel, our women's footwear, and our accessory businesses in those areas. These categories are posting mid-teen sales increases in all the major retailers throughout North America. This business is predominantly run by Gelmart and our partner G3, and they are seeing great sell-throughs at this time on those product categories.
Moving to Tommy Hilfiger, the business there for the first half of 2015, revenues on a constant currency basis increased 3% over the prior year. The increase was driven by solid performance in our international businesses, which grew 4% in the first half of 2015, including a 6% comp store increase throughout Europe. At wholesale, our Tommy European business continues to outperform the competition. As an indicator, our 2015 full-year European order books, excluding Russia, are running up 5% for the year. The strongest markets continue to be Germany, the U.K., France, and the Middle East. In North America, revenues increased 1%, resulting from retail square footage growth, partially offset by a 2% decrease in retail comp store sales. Our Tommy business continues to perform well despite the pressure on the retail business in the U.S. market, primarily driven by the lack of international tourists in our tourist destination locations.
As we have previously mentioned, this fall, we have Rafael Nadal as our brand ambassador, and boy, did he make a big splash in Bryant Park on Tuesday for the kickoff of our fall underwear and fragrance campaign. We believe that Rafa's association will be a positive for our overall men's business, but certainly will lift our underwear business globally. Our fall order books reflect this uptick in our underwear business, and Rafa will continue as our brand ambassador for spring 2016, where the focus will be on tailored clothing, and our initial order results in that category continue to be very strong. Moving to our Heritage Brands business. First half revenues for the Heritage Brands businesses were relatively flat, while operating income increased about 3%. This increase was driven by our Heritage Brands sportswear businesses, which continue to perform well both at wholesale and retail.
We have also seen strong performance in our Warner's core intimate business, particularly in the mid-tier channel of distribution, where we have seen our year-to-date market share grow by over 100 basis points. Our dress shirt business continued to underperform in the first half of the year. However, we believe that business will significantly improve in the second half of the year. New fall product deliveries, especially our Van Heusen Flex Collar, has seen strong early sell-throughs in August and give us confidence in our second-half sales increases for dress shirts. Let me take a moment and talk about our early third quarter back-to-school sales trends. Our international Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger business continues to post strong sales. By region, we are seeing very strong performance for Europe and China for both brands.
In Korea and Brazil, where we have a large Calvin Klein business, sales trends continue to be challenging as we are being negatively impacted by the macroeconomic environment for each of those countries. Overall, international same-store sales are up mid-single digits at Tommy Hilfiger and are up low single digit at our Calvin Klein business. Moving to our wholesale business in Europe, our order book for spring 2016, excluding our Russia business, is projected to be up 4%-5% at Tommy and is up about 15% at Calvin Klein as our marketing initiatives are starting to pay dividends along with our new product deliveries. In North America, we are dealing with a later back-to-school selling season due to a week later Labor Day holiday, which is making it more difficult to read the business.
Our retail same-store sales are running negative low single digit at Calvin Klein and negative mid-single digit at Tommy Hilfiger. Those two businesses are running on plan, given the later back-to-school season, and are continued to be impact by our international tourist traffic and spending. Before I turn it over to Mike, I just want to focus on some of the key initiatives we outlined at the beginning of the year. As we move over the next three years, our objectives will be capturing the long-term revenue and profit opportunities for our Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger brands. There are really four key initiatives that we hope to accomplish over the next three years that you should be monitoring as we go forward. The first is to continue to invest in product presentation and the marketing of the Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger brands.
Second, we continue to invest in our global operating platforms to support our growth strategies, including key investments in our digital commerce systems and platforms. Third, significantly improving operating results of the Calvin Klein European business over the next three years. Although we have seen strong performance there, we believe we have a long way to go to reach the comparable levels of profitability that exist at our Tommy Hilfiger business in the European market. This is a big opportunity for us as we move forward. Fourth is to continue to invest in the expansion of the presence of both brands in Asia and Latin America, including more direct control over the Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger licensing businesses, where we can maximize our core competency to increase sales and improve the overall profitability of both brands.
With that, I'd like to turn it over to Mike to quantify some of the second quarter results.
Thanks, Manny. The comments I'm about to make are based on non-GAAP results and are reconciled in our press release. On a constant currency basis, revenues for the second quarter were up 2% versus the prior year and ahead of our guidance. Driving our revenue increase was our Calvin Klein business, which delivered a 3% constant currency increase over the prior year. Our Calvin Klein International business was up 7% in constant currency, driven by strong wholesale shipments and international retail comps of 3%. Our Calvin Klein strategies are taking hold, and we are seeing improved performance, particularly in gross margin and in our international businesses. Tommy Hilfiger revenues were up 5% in constant currency, also ahead of our guidance, with strong revenues in our international business, which had revenues up 6% in constant currency and Europe comps up 9%.
Our Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein U.S. retail stores located in international tourist destinations continue to be under pressure from a lack of traffic and spending. These declines were more than offset by performance in other areas of these brands. Our Heritage Brands revenues were down 6%, also ahead of guidance and heavily influenced by the earlier-than-planned wholesale shipments, which benefited Q1, as well as the launch of IZOD at Kohl's in last year's second quarter. Earnings per share for the second quarter was $1.37, a $0.31 negative impact related to foreign currency and expected weakness in our Russian business. Excluding this negative impact, EPS would have increased 11% over the prior year. Our Q2 EPS was $0.07 ahead of the top end of our guidance.
The $0.07 beat was comprised of $0.10 related to business outperformance, which was predominantly at Calvin Klein, and an interest expense benefit of $0.02, partially offset by $0.05 of headwinds related to taxes and FX. For the full year 2015, we raised our guidance and are now projecting earnings per share at $6.90 to $7, which includes an additional $0.05 hit for foreign currency versus our previous guidance. If we exclude the negative impact related to foreign currency and weakness in our Russia business of $1.30, our earnings per share growth is projected to be 12%-14% over the prior year. We also raised our revenue guidance. We are now projecting revenues to grow approximately 4% on a constant currency basis.
Overall operating margins are expected to increase about 10 to 20 basis points, excluding a negative impact of about 60 basis points due to foreign currency. Driving the growth when excluding foreign currency is continued improvement in the Calvin Klein business, which is projecting revenues to grow 8% on a constant currency basis. We are also planning Calvin Klein operating margins to increase 80 to 90 basis points, excluding a negative impact of approximately 40 basis points of FX. Tommy Hilfiger revenues are planned to increase 4% on a constant currency basis, with operating margins planned down 60 to 70 basis points, excluding a negative impact of approximately 80 basis points of FX. Tommy Hilfiger international operating margins are planned up with North America operating margins planned down after excluding FX. This is due to pressure on U.S. stores located in international tourist locations.
Our Heritage business is planned to have a revenue decrease of 3%, due mostly to our exiting the Izod retail business in 2015. Operating margins in our Heritage business are planned to increase about 70 to 80 basis points. The impact of foreign currency in our Heritage business is relatively immaterial. Interest expense for the year is planned to be about $120 million, and compared to the prior year amount of $139 million, due to our average lower debt balances. Also favorably impacting interest for 2015 is the debt refinancing we did in last year's first quarter. We currently expect to generate approximately $450 million of free cash flow in 2015. This will be used to pay down debt of about $350 million and allow for opportunistic stock repurchases and our license buybacks. Our tax rate for the year is planned at about 21.5%.
Our revenue for the third quarter is planned up 3% on a constant currency basis. By business, we're estimating that third quarter revenues on a constant currency basis to increase 7% for Calvin, 4% for Tommy Hilfiger, and to decrease 5% for Heritage Brands. Heritage Brands revenues are being negatively impacted by the closing of our Izod retail division. Third quarter earnings per share is planned at $2.45 to $2.50, and includes approximately $0.40 of estimated negative impact for foreign currency and the decline in our Russia business. Excluding this negative impact, EPS is projected to increase 11%-13% over the prior year. Interest expense for the quarter is planned at $30 million and taxes about 18% in the third quarter. With that, we'll open it up to questions.
Thank you. If you'd like to ask a question, please signal by pressing *1 on your telephone keypad. If you're using a speakerphone, please make sure your mute function is turned off to allow your signal to reach our equipment. Again, press *1 to ask a question, and we'll pause just a moment to allow everyone an opportunity to signal for questions. We'll take our first question from Bob Drbul from Nomura.
Good morning.
Good morning, Bob.
Hi, Manny. Just have a couple of questions for you. The first one, I guess China is top of mind. I was wondering if you can elaborate a little bit more in terms of what you're seeing in China, I guess with some of the macro trends present, does that speed up or change the potential for the license buyback opportunities that's there?
I guess, let me start with part one of that question, which was the business in China. Our business in China, both for Calvin, that we operate directly, our comps have been running between mid-single digit to high single digit for the first six months of the year. That trend has more or less continued through August so far. The challenge as trying to operate that business is trying to get beyond a lot of the noise that's going on from the stock market point of view and where we see the business moving and going. You can't help but look at that business and be a little bit more conservative about how we project that business out, both for the balance of this year and then moving into 2016 and beyond. It just gives us pause.
We've seen how the luxury market has been hit from a sales point of view. We haven't experienced anything like that. I think our brands, both Calvin and Tommy, are very well positioned in that market as premium brands, affordable luxury. I think that works to our advantage, we have strong brands that are really executing. From that point of view. On point two on Tommy, potentially acquiring the 55% of the Tommy Hilfiger license business that we don't own throughout China, which is very healthy and very profitable. I try not to make those macro issues really impact that decision. Strategically, it makes all the sense in the world for us to own that business. I think from a valuation point of view, although that market has taken hits, if you look at PEs or valuations, they're still relatively high.
We will be diligent as we look at that. Clearly, one of our goals would be to own that business sooner rather than later. It just makes too much sense from a brand point of view, and I think financially, it should be a nice transaction for us.
Great. Thanks, Manny. I guess the second question that I have is on some of the commentary you made around the back-to-school period. Can you just discuss a little bit more around the trends that you're seeing, I guess, is it your own retail stores and is it your wholesale partners? Sort of how much of a pickup you expect to see with the later Labor Day and sort of how that's incorporated in the third quarter estimates that you've provided this morning?
Sure. I think just to talk about how we plan the business. From the beginning of the year, we've always planned August negative. Low single-digit negative kind of comps because of the shift that we see, and we're planning September more aggressively and higher positive, mid-to-high single-digit. When you put both months together, I think you get a much more natural feel for the business continuing to run up low single-digit positive comps in our own businesses and at retail, generally speaking. I think geographically, I think it's much more of a Northeast
Southeast phenomenon with the whole back-to-school and being somewhat later. I think as you move across the country, some of those schools come back earlier. Since most of our retailers and ourselves have a concentration of business in those regions, it's having a significant impact on trying to read business. I think when we get to September 15th or whatever, we'll have a real clear understanding of how this back-to-school period is trending. I think generally speaking, everyone has planned it to be somewhat later as we've gone forward.
Great. Thank you very much, Manny.
Moving on. We'll take our next question from David Glick with Buckingham Research.
Thank you. Manny, congrats on the progress. My first question was on Calvin Klein. Obviously, you're seeing some acceleration in your business. Looking at your guidance, it does imply a ramp-up in the fourth quarter. I just wondered if you could touch on what is driving that increase. You talked about a strong order book, but what gives you the confidence that you can see that kind of acceleration? What does that mean for the business going forward? Can we see an acceleration in the Calvin Klein growth rates to levels that you guys have talked about as your goals going forward? Thanks.
Well, I think there's two things really going on. Three things. I think the underlying business just continues to perform very strongly. We're really seeing the kind of sales performance that we've seen at retail in jeans and underwear. As you can imagine, when you're getting the kind of sales increases we've gotten, we've been chasing business all year. We really get into a position where we could fulfill at what we would feel like an acceptable rate to consumer demand, particularly in underwear, which is a replenishment business, really starts as we get into the holiday season, probably late September, early October. I think you're seeing a bit of that. There are real healthy trends in the underlying business.
We also have some pretty significant square footage growth in Calvin and Tommy, to a degree, due to the transfer in North America of our IZOD stores to the Calvin Klein underwear and accessories store. Square footage growth there that'll really come in in the holiday selling season, which is very strong. The last thing is internationally, even with all the strength, we are going to benefit in the fourth quarter like everyone else from early Chinese New Year, which really impacts a lot of the Asia markets. It's about two to three weeks earlier this year. You get two things happening. You'll get earlier actual retail sales in the stores we're operating, but also because of the early Chinese New Year, wholesale shipments are falling into January out of February.
There's a little bit of a timing shift there that we have to just deal with every year with Chinese New Year. Underlying business just continues to be very strong. Looking into 2016, we're not getting into all the guidance discussion about it, but obviously, there's momentum in the Calvin Klein business. We think that momentum will help us partially offset some of the headwinds we're seeing with continued pressure on FX, particularly on a transaction basis going forward from inventory purchases in some of our foreign markets, Europe, Brazil, Mexico, and Canada. We've talked about those issues. That's in front of us for 2016.
Great. That's a good segue into my next question in terms of your ability to offset that. You've talked about managing SG&A, taking some price increases, and potential AUC reductions. I'm wondering if the devaluation we're seeing in the Chinese currency is enhancing your ability to increase the percentage of transactional FX that you may be facing next year.
The Chinese currency impact has been relatively small. It's about a 3% reduction. At this point. What that might portend as you extrapolate that and if there's more pressure on the Chinese currency, clearly that might make an opportunity for Fall 2016 and beyond. Right now, at this point, with the pressure you're seeing on labor rates offset by some currency benefit, it's very marginal just on that particular front. You hit the three buckets we really are trying to focus on. As you can imagine, the biggest challenge we're looking at is how aggressive to raise prices, particularly in a world, as you look out there, that is facing extraordinary deflationary pressure in just general terms. When most economists speak, their biggest concern is deflation, not inflation.
The challenge we're facing, although our cost increases, say, in Europe or Canada, are increasing anywhere from 12%-18% because of a big piece of that being currency offset by some product savings. How much can you raise prices in one season? That continues to be an ongoing discussion with our retail partners, and we'll give more color to that as we get into the end of the third quarter going into the fourth quarter. We talked about that there'll be pressure in the neighborhood just on pure mathematical basis in excess of $1 a share in 2016, and we're hoping to be able to partially offset some of that. That's where we are right now, David.
Great. Thanks. Last quick question on dress shirts. Not your largest business, obviously, but it did have a pretty sizable negative impact on your fourth quarter last year. You talked about the Flex Collar. I'm just wondering how big an innovation that is and how broadly you can extend that product innovation across your wide array of brands and programs. Is this the kind of thing that could be like athletic fit was for you, or fitted? Or how are you viewing this new product?
Well, it's a great call-out. Our dress shirt business is a $500 million business. We went after the product innovation. You saw it at MAGIC, but if you go into stores now, you'll see it principally with the Van Heusen brand. There's 1 million units on the floor, which is significant, of this new product and this new technology that we have a patent on to use. We're seeing really a strong response to it. I don't want to get too far ahead of ourselves. It's three weeks of selling. As you would expect, it's at the three key retailers, Kohl's, JCPenney, and Macy's, in a substantial way. It's getting a reaction, and it is a little bit more expensive product, and we're able to get a much higher retail price on it. We're tracking the business.
We have the pipeline and the sourcing network in order to go really after the business in 2016, if it really starts to roll out. We'll focus on some of our other owned brands, where we may employ that technology where it makes sense. It is a real innovation for the dress shirt business, and I think we're going to try to take advantage of it as the market leaders.
Great. Thank you very much. Good luck.
Moving on. We'll take our next question from Joan Payson from Barclays.
Hi, good morning.
Hi, Joan.
Manny, could you talk a little bit, I think you've mentioned China, but more broadly for 2016, are there any other potential headwinds that you would foresee, and how do those compare to this year?
I guess, Joan, the biggest headwind we face, cut through it all, is currencies. Fundamentally, currencies are usually, I don't want to play economist, but those are usually indicative of what's going on in the underlying economies. As the biggest market for us is Europe. It has gone through some macro issues, but we're actually seeing positive sales trends in Europe. We believe that economy is coming back, and that consumer is re-engaging. The challenge we are facing in Europe for 2016 will be cost increases that are double-digit cost increases, and how much of that is reasonable in one or two seasons to pass on to the consumer. That's the biggest challenge we're facing in Europe. As you get into some of the other markets that you talked about, some of the emerging markets. Brazil.
Brazil for us has been, for Calvin Klein in particular, and Tommy just really getting started with the joint venture there. We've seen over the last five years, dramatic growth in that market. Clearly, as we're planning 2016, we're planning that business flat to down slightly. That is just different than what we've had to do over the last five years. It's totally a reflection of what's going on in that macro environment, how that consumer is being impacted by everything politically and economically that's going on in that business. I think in some regards, given that we as an international brand are really a pioneer in Brazil developing a business, we're probably more impacted by that business as we go forward. The China market continues to be a growth market for us. We continue to expand there. We continue to add square footage.
We continue to expand our brand offering throughout China, both Calvin and Tommy, as those businesses develop. The challenge there is it's more of a what's going to happen question and how much growth is there. Clearly, this is not the heydays of three years ago where from 2007 to 2010, the business grew 15% top line. We're planning the business to grow more mid-single digit. I think that's reasonable. We are currently outperforming that, but there's just a lot of noise in the environment. I guess the biggest thing we're dealing with is uncertainty and what that potentially does to the consumer, how that forces us to plan our business, and reacting to the macro environment. I think as a brand, as a company, we are as well positioned as anyone to really weather those headwinds. Our portfolio of brands gives us diversification.
Our geographic diversification is second to none, which I think is a long-term success. Although in this market, the more North American you are, the better you are. I think on a long-term basis, being the global powerhouse brand is the place to be. We're just dealing with a lot of those macro issues. That's the biggest headwind we're dealing with.
Okay, great. You also mentioned the digital initiatives as being a big program over the next three years. Could you just provide an update on how big those online businesses are at this point and what rate they're growing at?
Sure. I guess I'm not going to really quantify in total, I would describe all of our online direct businesses as small. Add it all up, $150 million in sales, just taking everything into consideration. It's growing dramatically, but again, off of a small base. We really target that as a growth area. In the Calvin Klein area in particular, if you think about pre-Warnaco acquisition, we were a licensor. Getting the model right internationally for an e-commerce platform, direct e-commerce platform, was very difficult as a licensee with so many different partners doing business, and Warnaco being the biggest partner at the time. Post-acquisition, that focus has completely changed. We now control probably, in apparel, we probably control 65% of the categories today. With our relation with G3, are able to really aggressively go after the women's area as well.
That's been the area where the biggest investments have been made. We now have active, highly functioning, performing e-commerce direct-to-consumer platforms. China, throughout most of Asia, Europe, launching in Brazil, launching in Mexico. North America, obviously both brands, Tommy and Calvin, are there. Now we're making those connections with the consumer that needs to be made, not only from a commercial point of view, Today, I would say between Calvin and Tommy, 60% of our marketing budget are directed at digital marketing. Connecting with the consumer there, converting them to our in-store platforms, our wholesale customers' in-store online platforms, or our own brick-and-mortar stores as well. It's really a 360 campaign. It's requiring capital investment, there's no doubt about that, That's just the price of growth and where we are, It's factored into all of our plans as we go forward.
It's a big opportunity, and it's both an opportunity for us to sell direct to the consumer, but also sell through our key wholesale accounts on our e-commerce platform, where we're really seeing growth. If you look at our dot com business with some of our partners, those businesses are up, depending on the player, anywhere from 30%-50%. Clearly, our penetration continues to grow online.
Great. Thank you.
Moving on. We'll take our next question from Erinn Murphy from Piper Jaffray.
Great. Thank you. Congrats on the progress during the quarter. Manny, I was hoping you could talk a little bit more about the denim business. The category broadly has seemed to have a little bit of a resurgence, and it seems that there's also been better pricing integrity in the category of late. Maybe can you share a bit more about the Calvin Klein traction you're seeing, in particular the inflection in women's? What are you seeing broadly right now in terms of AURs and just how you're planning the promotional side of that business?
Okay. Let's talk about North America first. I think we're clearly seeing both growth in men's and women's. We're seeing much better sell-throughs, more regular price sell-throughs or prices that are first kind of markdown. Denim is a category that will be promoted no matter what your brand is. I think what we're really seeing is, it's been a cycle for the last, going into this year, the last three or four years, where, particularly on the women's side, men's has been more stable, but women's in particular, it's been really a sharp decline in overall market share in denim. What that's really done is, as you've moved through seasons where inventory historically had been building up, it's required more promotions, more clearance, and a real takedown in AURs overall for the season.
For the last nine months in our jeans business, our AURs are up about 20% in men's and women's in North America. I think that's a sign of the health in the overall denim market, but also a lot of the initiatives that we have in place that have moved the product up, improved the product. I am optimistic about the category as it moves forward because it's an important category for every retailer, and it's historically been one of their most profitable categories. There's a real focus on continuing to focus on that area. On the women's side in particular, there's been a lot of product innovation around stretch jeans, really trying to take advantage of that whole athleisure as it relates to a denim component of that.
We're really starting to see the knit jeans really starting to become a bigger component of the business as well. For Calvin, we've always had a very healthy tops denim business, which seems counterintuitive. It's really about reestablishing our bottoms business, where we are significantly underdeveloped against the competitive set. Where most of our competitive set, like a Levi's and some of the other brands, denim bottoms will represent well in excess of 50% of their overall sell. For Calvin, it's been hovering around 30%, moving it to 40%. There's this huge bottoms opportunity that I think our fits now are much more well-defined. The consumer is starting to refind us, and I think it's like anything else with denim, it's really a fit issue as well.
As that consumer starts to wear the product, starts to have a positive response to the product, they become a more loyal consumer. I think we're price positioned right in the sweet spot of the market. We're not sitting at some $200 denim prestige that represents 5% of the market. We are a designer denim jean that is going out the door $59-$89 in North America. That's a real sweet spot for all department stores, and we're really starting to see it.
That's helpful. Thank you. Just following up on some of the unique partnerships you guys have announced recently, both with Opening Ceremony for Calvin, but also some of the distribution, like Urban Outfitters you mentioned, and Topshop. Can you just elaborate on maybe some of the other opportunities that, from a retail perspective, that these ones are kind of showcasing whether there's new accounts you could be getting into or kind of deeper business within these existing kind of newer distribution opportunities?
I think the channel you just spoke about, that specialty store denim business, which really targets the teenage consumer through maybe a 30-year-old consumer. To do business there is very healthy and can be very profitable. Even more important is what it means about the brand and your positioning with the consumer. I think obviously every major department store, both in Europe and North America, when you sit down with them, what they continue to talk about is trying to attract a younger consumer. I don't think it's any surprise to anyone that department stores tend to skew somewhat older, and I think if your brand can be more relevant if the Calvin brand continues to be more relevant to a younger consumer, given our strong position in some of these specialty retailers.
Our strong underwear component, which is usually the introduction to a consumer. That is by far our youngest consumer. If you have that connection between underwear and jeans, I think your brand now becomes more relevant to a younger consumer. The opportunity with some of the retailers you talked about, Urban Outfitters, with Topshop, particularly The Buckle as we move forward. Some other players, Opening Ceremony you mentioned. It's as important as it is commercially. It's also very important from a brand positioning point of view, how we connect with a younger consumer, how we connect digitally, how we sell online to that consumer. We're seeing really great growth there, and it just makes our brand relevant to that consumer, and I think it makes us a cooler brand that will see stronger sell-throughs.
It's just another indication of, if we're in that channel of distribution, the product has to be right. You don't get accepted into that channel of distribution unless your product is positioned appropriately.
Great. Thank you. That's helpful. I'll let someone else jump in. Best of luck.
Thank you.
Moving on. We'll take our next question from Michael Binetti with UBS.
Good morning, guys. Congrats on a great quarter.
Thanks, Michael.
Manny, can you just help us understand the big inflection in the Tommy same-store sales in the quarter, particularly the inflection to 9% in Europe, the particular standout, maybe a little help on whether you think, hey, that was simply good execution from the team in the quarter, or if there were some changes that you made that we should think about as more of a medium-term tailwind?
It's hard to say. Let me start with that. We had a really good second quarter selling season. You could make a case of, well, as we moved into August, your comps have decelerated from plus 9 to mid-single digits. I think some of that is the fact that it was such a successful first half of the year full price selling, that we had significantly less merchandise to promote and sell off during the traditionally sale seasons throughout Europe. We just weren't as aggressive in July and August from a promotional calendar because we didn't need to be, and I think we managed our gross profit. As we're turning into August and that's starting to wind down, we're seeing business continue to improve. I think there's two things going on. I really think our line is fantastic.
I think the consumer is connecting with it. I think the product is right. I also think that there's also something just going on in the overall environment in Europe. I think there's two basic things. I think the environment is improving, and I think because of the currency situation that's going on, I think a lot more Europeans are staying home. By staying home, I mean, I think they're vacationing this summer within continental Europe and U.K., where their Euros are buying more, where if they come to the U.S., forgetting everything else, their hotel and food, just from a currency point of view, is up 20%-25%. I think we're benefiting from that. We're also, I think, benefiting from the fact that our Chinese consumer or the Asian consumer, instead of being in the U.S., is more so in Europe.
I was in Paris and I was in Amsterdam this last month. You could see the tourism boom that's going on there and helping their economy. Long-winded way to say, I think the underlying product and the brand strength continues to be second to none, particularly in Europe for the Tommy Hilfiger brand. I think the environment continues to improve, and that consumer is back out, opening up their wallets and spending money, and we're getting a larger share of that.
Okay. On the Calvin business, particularly in North America Wholesale, it's been hovering. You helped us isolate a few data points that have caused some noise in there, like shifts, but it's been hovering plus or minus flat range for a while. With all the growth and inflecting demand from retailers you've been talking to us about, it's not exactly intuitive why the reported results are still hovering around the flat range. I'm trying to think backwards through the moving parts that are in the baseline there and what's causing that number to remain flattish.
More specifically, are there some things that you would point out to us that start to roll off over the next few quarters from that baseline and remove some headwinds that are going to make the growth rate of that North America business sound a lot more like what it sounds to me like you're trying to tell us the underlying run rate of the businesses as you've started relaunching product?
Yeah. Look, Mike, I think there's a lot of noise in numbers because of currency and everything else. That's point one. I think point two is, we've consistently been talking about cleaning up distribution, closing doors, but also even in some of our best accounts, as much as we've opened square footage and we've expanded in top doors, and we just didn't think a brand belonged in a lot of the bottom doors. There's been that ongoing issue.
I've also talked about the fact that we've been chasing business constantly. You don't necessarily see it all on the top line, although there has been top-line growth. What you're really seeing it, I think, is in the operating margins in the business, despite the currency impact, which is taking that away. The operating margins of the business just continue to improve. I think the inflection point I touched on is really fourth quarter. I think you'll start to see that more and hopefully as we go into 2016, we see our order books really starting to improve significantly in North America.
Okay. It's at least somewhat related to removing distribution and the year-over-year headwind that that causes. We'll connect that to, I think, David's question earlier, where it says this is how we get to the business.
Yeah. Mike and David [audio distortion]
Okay.
We report North America, when you add Canada's currency is down 20%, that's.
Okay
a 20% increase before. Mexico is down 18%. When you factor that in, when you put it all in, it's just part of the drag that's on the business as we go forward from currency.
Okay. If I could just ask one last quick follow-up. I think you mentioned last night on television, maybe a six to nine-month time frame as far as looking at licenses. To help us think about it. At this point, I don't know if anybody's reminded that you said that, but at this point is-
Well, now they are.
You can't go on TV and expect us to forget, man. At this point, can you help us think about what influences time frame on that? Is it, look, typically these in the past, these licenses have been set so that everybody's happy with the terms, when it gets executed, and it's a negotiation, or is it more set by when licenses roll off at this point? Thank you.
It's a good question. I guess, when you're on that show with Jim Cramer, it does get a little crazy at times. Again, not to put too definite a time frame on things.
Sure
Nothing's really changed. Buying back licenses, it's a delicate situation. You've had a partner, usually for a number of years, that's built the business and whatever, and clearly has created value for the brand and for themselves. There needs to be a reasonable negotiation that goes on, so that you secure a business and you don't want to have a situation where you break a license or just terminate a license at the end and just take back a business. I think there's too many examples of that where you wind up leaving money on the table and hurt the underlying business. That's not our goal. Our goal is to negotiate a fair, reasonable transaction with our partners, and to do it in a way that doesn't economically hurt them.
More importantly, from our perspective, is really gives us a business that's ongoing with momentum in it as we go forward. That's the push and the pull that goes on there. Clearly, the biggest driver of that is licensing term. If somebody's got 2-3 years to go on a license, and you've clearly given them an indication that the plan is to bring it back in, that's a very reasonable negotiation to go on. Somebody has 8-10 years or 20 years, depending on the situation, it's a much more challenging discussion, similar to the kind of discussions we had with Warnaco when we wanted to buy their business back. Besides the complication of being a public company, it was a very long-term license, so there was much more value there that had to be determined.
This is really about sitting down with partners with more or less, for the most part, short-term licenses balances left. Probably the only exception to that is China, where really are trying to come up with a reasonable way and a smooth transition. I believe over the next-
Okay
...over 2015 and 2016, we'd be very disappointed if you haven't seen some progress in that area. That is a beginning process of bringing some of those businesses in. When that starts, I think it'd become obvious what the next potential licensee take-back would be, and those would be very strategic and accretive transactions as we move forward.
All right, thanks. Outstanding quarter, guys. Thank you.
Moving on. We'll take our next question from John Kernan from Cowen and Company.
Hey, good morning, guys. Thanks for squeezing me in.
Sure.
I wanted to ask a question. Calvin Klein operating margin internationally has been fantastic in the first half of this year in the face of a lot of currency pressure. Calvin Klein North America margins have been under significant pressure. Just trying to understand what's driving the Calvin Klein International operating margin at this point. Is it European margin recovery? And where you stand right now for profitability in Europe. I think when you bought the business from Warnaco, it was not making any money. Just a little color there would be helpful. Thank you.
Look, in the Calvin Klein business, we operate in both Asia and in Europe on the international margins. The Asia business continues to perform. The margins there are very healthy. On the European business, we've talked over a three-year period getting someplace closer to 10% operating margins. We're on that trajectory, but those margins today are positive, but relatively small at this point. We've seen expansion in both, but the European margins are still relatively small, and we're still at the beginnings of the turnaround.
Yes. Mike said it perfectly. The relative improvement has been taking a loss in Calvin Klein Europe over the last two years to a profit, but still below what anyone would think is acceptable. The currency, in fact, that we've gotten hit with has hit the top line and the bottom line, but proportionally the same. Operating margins haven't really contracted significantly or at all there yet. That starts really in the second half of the year, where the product cost component of FX as our hedges start to roll off, particularly in the fourth quarter and then into 2016. That's where operating margins would be more impacted as we go forward from that point of view. I think that kind of lays it out.
Okay. Then if I could just thematically ask one more question. We've noticed a lot of the global lifestyle brands increasing distribution on Amazon, just wondering what your strategy is with Amazon. I know they're making a big push into fashion. It seems like there is some Tommy and Calvin product on Amazon at this point. I just wondering what your strategy is there.
Our Amazon business has grown geometrically. Our Calvin Klein underwear business in particular is by far the largest selling underwear on the Amazon site, as you would expect, giving them that product category. They're a great partner. We really manage that very closely from making sure it's brand enhancing. We just don't want goods on the site. We want the brand experience on the site, and they've been very good at getting us that. We've really attacked it regionally, both here in North America and in Europe. We would expect that customer to be a significant growth area for us for both Calvin and Tommy over the next three years. Try to manage that distribution so it doesn't become in any way brand negative.
All right. That's great. Congrats on all the momentum. Thank you.
Moving on. We'll take our next question from Dana Telsey from Telsey Advisory Group.
Good morning, everyone, and congratulations on a terrific quarter. As the underwear business certainly seems to be very strong in gaining market share in both men's and women's. Is it expanded distribution? Is it the celebrity advertising programs you have? Is it margins improving also? How do you see the go forward for that underwear business? Thank you.
Dana, I would say in North America, in underwear, besides some of the specialty stores that we've added, it's basically the same customer base. If you walk into the store, the exposure has just grown. There's been a continuing expansion of the square footage, and that's directly aligned with new product innovations. New products has been delivered. On the women's side of the business, we always had a very strong bottoms panties business. The focus has really been to grow the bra business, which from a price point is four times the unit cost of panties. The growth has really been to really try and grow that square footage. If you went to Macy's Herald Square, you'll see a women's shop that's 2,500 square feet. You'll see a men's shop that's 2,500 square feet.
We are clearly their largest brand there, and I think with the best positioning on the floor. On men's, yes. On women's, trying to move from the number 2, 3 position to the number 1 position in that store from a sales volume point of view. That's really been the opportunity. We're so dominant in men's. I think men's will continue to grow nicely. To be honest, the bigger market opportunity for us is women's. Market's much bigger, and our market share, although significant, is not nearly as dominant as it is in men's. That opportunity is really in front of us to grow. In Europe, it's been a growth in customer, better retail presentation, better customer presentation, through the cleaning up of the brand into department stores and key specialty stores.
Offsetting that has been getting out of the off-price channels and getting out of some terrible distribution that the brand was in. That's been a balancing act. What you've really seen in the last six, nine months, the growth that you've seen in the business has really been driven both by square footage growth, which we think can continue, and also growing the customer base, which we also think can continue throughout Europe. In Asia, it's basically a retail business, whether that's our own stores or a department store concession business. There we continue to open doors. It continues to be the player in the market. We continue to raise AURs throughout Asia, lifting the product up. Our Black Label product has gone from 3% of the business in Asia, to today, 10%, with a goal to get to 20%.
That product is price positioned a good 30%-40% higher than our base business. Those are the initiatives that are really driven the presence of underwear and the market share gains by region.
Thank you.
Operator, we're going to make this our last question. It's well after 10 o'clock.
Certainly. Omar Saad with Evercore.
Good morning. Thanks. Great job on the progress, guys. Manny, quick question on the outlet channel. There's been a lot of controversy around this channel. I know it's affected by currency and tourism. I don't know if you can parse that out and see what's going on underlying with local consumers, but your thoughts on that channel would be helpful. I know it's still an important distribution for you guys.
Sure. If you look at the number of centers in the outlet environment, the number of centers significantly skews towards permanent population locations. Good, solid stores that this year continue to comp, overall single-digit comp store increase. Probably, 2%-4% kind of growth in that market. Healthy, along with the American consumer, I think, being healthy. The channel continues to be, just from our perspective, very healthy. What is going on is there are 15 key centers around the country in these tourist destination locations that are extraordinarily large. Think of Harriman, N.Y., and this location. Think of Orlando down in Florida, where on the normal size of the store is 5 to 10 times as large as an average store in a permanent population location. Those are the stores in the channel that are being impacted the most dramatically.
I think the brands that are being impacted the most dramatically are the global brands. Ourselves, Calvin and Tommy, we talked about. I guess Ralph Lauren has talked about this. Coach has talked about it to a degree. Some of it, if you're a global player that really attracts a global consumer in those centers, like Orlando or Harriman, your customer base in those centers for those brands, 50% of the credit card sales are international tourists from South America, Europe, and Asia. If tourism is down in the U.S., which we know just in general terms it is, those are the centers that are being impacted, and those 15 or so centers are the ones, because of the size of their business, are being dragged down accordingly because of that.
As we look out, we believe as we get into the fourth quarter of 2015, and clearly into the first quarter of 2016, we start to anniversary that business, and it should become less and less of an issue for us. Clearly, third quarter, it's going to continue to be an issue. Last year, our comps for both Calvin and Tommy were high single-digit positive comps in North America. We're up against some of our most challenging comps in the third quarter, driven by that international tourism. That's the best I can do for you. There is really nothing at all wrong with that channel of distribution. It's like saying there's a problem with Herald Square Macy's because tourism is down in Macy's. It's still the largest department store in the world and probably the most profitable department store in the world.
It is being impacted by just tourism trends.
That's really helpful. Thanks. One last question. In this kind of younger millennial consumer efforts that you're making and you're seeing progress you're seeing in the Calvin Klein business, help us understand the relationship with Topshop, Urban Outfitters, other channels that really target that young consumer. Have you guys always been there in that channel? Is that business now accelerating as you push into the more of the digital marketing and some of those younger campaigns? Are those retailers coming to you and asking you to develop more product for them?
As a brand, Calvin Klein, I would say 10 years ago, when the brand was the number one designer jeans brand in North America, where it had a great position in the market, where product was being executed, we were in those kinds of stores. The last five years at Warnaco, that business was zero and went away. You need to be cool. You need to be connected. The Calvin Klein product wasn't cool. It wasn't cutting edge. There was other brands that were much hotter, and that business was living off the heritage of the brand and over-dependent on off-price channel distribution. I think what's indicative, most importantly, about the fact that we are in Urban Outfitters, we are in Topshop, is the brand, the product is connecting with that younger consumer.
Combination of our marketing and how we've really gone after that market, combination of the product and what it is, and that it's executing, and we're seeing really strong sell-throughs. The product's hitting. If you walk in, just go into an Urban Outfitters, you're going to see a presentation of Calvin that you've never seen before. It's going to be front and center. I will tell you it's still relatively a very small business, but it's creating a lot of buzz, and it's helping our department store business. Finally, I think it's also very important. Look, our primary channel of distribution is department stores. They want to continue to attract the younger consumer. It's important. We're one of those brands, particularly Calvin, that skews younger than the department store customer.
I think it's a combination of our underwear business and our jeans business that does that for our department store accounts. At the same time, we don't want to alienate our more mature department store accounts. We really have differentiated product that services the needs of both of those consumers from a fit point of view and from an aesthetic point of view. I think that hopefully makes it clear why that channel is important.
Thanks for all the information.
Okay. Well, that ends our call. I'd like to thank everybody for joining. We look forward to speaking to you in December for our third quarter press release. I wish everybody a happy and safe Labor Day holiday weekend. Enjoy the balance of the summer. Have a good day.
That will conclude today's conference. We thank you.