I would like to remind everyone that this conference call is being recorded. I would now like to turn the conference over to Erinn Kohler, Vice President, Investor Relations and Corporate Planning. Please go ahead, ma'am.
Hello, and thank you, everyone, for joining us today. On the call is Dave Powers, President and Chief Executive Officer, and Steve Fasching, Chief Financial Officer. Before we begin, I would like to remind everyone of the company's safe harbor policy. Please note that certain statements made on this call are forward-looking statements within the meaning of the federal securities laws, which are subject to considerable risks and uncertainties. These forward-looking statements are intended to qualify for the safe harbor from liability established by the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995. All statements made on this call today, other than statements of historical facts, are forward-looking statements and include statements regarding our anticipated financial performance, including, but not limited to, our projected revenue, margins, expenses, and earnings per share, as well as statements regarding our strategies for our products and brands.
Forward-looking statements made on this call represent management's current expectations and are based on information available at the time such statements are made. Forward-looking statements involve numerous known and unknown risks, uncertainties, and other factors that may cause our actual results to differ materially from any results predicted, assumed, or implied by the forward-looking statements. The company has explained some of these risks and uncertainties in its SEC filings, including in the Risk Factors section of its annual report on Form 10-K and quarterly reports on Form 10-Q. Except as required by law or the listing rules of the New York Stock Exchange, the company expressly disclaims any intent or obligation to update any forward-looking statements. Please note that throughout this discussion, there may be references to certain non-GAAP financial measures for comparable prior year results.
These non-GAAP financial measures refer to results before taking into account non-recurring charges that are not believed to be core to our ongoing operating results. Our non-GAAP financial measures are not adjusted for constant currency. While we did not have any non-GAAP financial adjustments for the third quarter of fiscal 2020, a reconciliation between our reported GAAP and non-GAAP results for the prior year can be found in our earnings release that is posted on our website under the investors tab. With that, I'll now turn it over to Dave.
Thanks, Erinn. Good afternoon, everyone, and thank you for joining us today. I'm proud to announce that our third quarter results exceeded expectations, with total company revenue increasing 7% over last year to $939 million, delivering earnings per share of $7.14. These results represent the largest revenue and earnings quarter in the history of Deckers Brands. Our record performance was fueled by the strength of sales in our domestic UGG business, partially aided by a forward shift in consumer demand, as well as higher than anticipated sales in both our HOKA ONE ONE and Koolaburra brands. We are very pleased that our third quarter results continue to evidence success within the key initiatives that we are actively pursuing. As a reminder, these include fueling HOKA growth, which experienced a 64% increase versus last year, reaching $93 million in a quarterly revenue for the first time.
Building the UGG men's business, which increased by 10% over last year. Diversifying the UGG brand's product mix, again reducing reliance on core classics, and fostering emerging brands with Koolaburra growing 94% versus last year and capturing significant incremental market share. With the diversification of the UGG brand sales mix and explosive growth of both HOKA and Koolaburra, the performance demonstrated in our largest quarter underscores the progress our organization is making on these focused investments. I'm excited to share more detail on our evolution. Let's get into the brand highlights, starting with the Fashion Lifestyle group. As a reminder, the Fashion Lifestyle group consists of our UGG and Koolaburra brands. For UGG, global sales in the quarter grew by 3% versus last year to $781 million, representing the brand's largest quarter in its history.
Growth in the quarter for the UGG brand was driven by its domestic business, as U.S. sales increased 8% over the same period last year. This domestic strength is highlighted by increased traction within the Neumel franchise, including meaningful contributions to the men's business, as well as extensions across women's and kids, continued strength in the Fluff franchise, and significant gains in the kids' footwear business. We continue to experience success within our UGG wholesale marketplace strategy in the U.S., driven by segmentation that offers differentiated consumer experiences across the breadth of our accounts and clean inventory in the channel through managed allocations, which has enabled the brand to open select new points of distribution targeting younger and more fashion-forward consumers.
The strength in our UGG domestic business was partially offset by lower international sales, which experienced a 7% decline versus last year, which was in line with our expectations. While some of the weakness in the European market is related to macroeconomic events, we are in the process of addressing some brand-specific challenges that currently exist. As we have stated, in our EMEA region, we are in the midst of a multi-year marketplace reset intended to reignite brand heat, rationalize marketplace inventory, consolidate the account base with feature partners who enhance the UGG brand, and provide a more differentiated experience across consumer touchpoints. In addition, the UGG team has begun to shift towards more localized marketing, PR, and digital marketing tools.
We also recognize there are improvements to be made in our Asia Pacific region, and we will be taking a similar marketing approach as we work to build brand heat in our APAC region as well. Taking a look at the UGG brand product offering, we continue to make strides in the diversification of our product line. For UGG men's in the quarter, this was the third consecutive year of double-digit growth, aided by investments made to drive awareness and consideration. Men's was prominently featured in both the Neumel marketing campaign and our holiday marketing campaign that featured the Marley family. As a result of these marketing efforts, UGG men's experienced a mid-teens increase in brand consideration among all men, and over a 50% increase with fashion-leading men, according to YouGov.
The Neumel franchise continues to be a big driver of our men's success, as both heritage product and new derivative styles introduced during the fall season helped deliver strong results. In particular, the Neumel Zip and Neumel Flex sold through very well in their introductory season. We also executed two successful collaborations during the quarter with leading lifestyle brands Heron Preston and BAPE. Both collaborations rapidly sold out of their respective pinnacle product offering. As a result of the brand's increased focus on men's messaging, product seeding with global influencers, and digital marketing efforts, UGG men's experienced a near 30% increase in 18 - 34-year-old consumer purchasing on UGG.com. The UGG product team has done a great job building a franchise around the Neumel to complement the men's offer.
Turning to our UGG women's business, we entered the holiday season with a strong setup in the U.S., highlighted by a clean wholesale channel, dedicated allocation, and targeted digital marketing tactics. As a result, the women's business performed well domestically based on accelerated momentum with younger consumers. Similar to men's in the third quarter, women's also experienced a near 30% increase in purchases with female consumers aged 18 - 34 years old in the U.S. Younger consumers gravitated to both heritage styles like the Classic Mini and Classic Short, as well as newer styles like the Fluff Yeah Slide. While styles like the Fluff Yeah were well-received globally, there is still work to be done to generate greater interest in the brand's diversified product offering in our international region. Drafting off the success of both women's and men's, our global kids footwear business grew by 20% versus last year.
The kids' business benefited from strong partnerships with key wholesale accounts that are helping to expand consumer touch points and undoubtedly saw a positive impact from our holiday marketing campaign that emphasized the brand's offering for the whole family. The exposure and positive response to this family campaign led to the success of takedown styles from women's and men's, including the Fluff Yeah Slide and Neumel. The brand's results underscore the progress being made towards a more diversified product mix, as at a global level, the brand grew year-over-year, with men's increasing as a percentage of brand sales, women's non-classic increasing as a percent of brand sales, and total women's classic product, which includes core and derivatives, purposely declining as a percentage of brand sales, with the balance of the business, including kids and non-footwear experience and gain.
Diversifying the UGG brand's revenue composition remains top of mind, and we'll continue to focus on amplifying our heritage styles while complementing the product offering with exciting new products rich with brand DNA. Overall, the UGG brand had an exceptional peak season, and I'd like to congratulate the team on a well-executed third quarter. Turning to Koolaburra, global sales in the third quarter increased by 94% versus the prior year to $39 million, delivering a few million above our guided expectation. This growth was driven by gains in market share within the domestic wholesale marketplace. Additionally, this fall, Koolaburra introduced a men's and toddlers' assortment for the first time, and both product lines displayed strong sell-through with our wholesale partners. Congratulations to the entire Koolaburra team on a fantastic quarter of record-breaking revenue.
Both UGG and Koolaburra have done an impressive job capturing holiday demand with great product, strong marketing, and a clearly differentiated target consumer. Shifting to the Performance Lifestyle group, which is comprised of HOKA, Teva, and Sanuk. HOKA brand global sales increased by 64% versus last year to a record $93 million. HOKA experienced growth both domestically and internationally across all channels of distribution. The HOKA brand acquired new consumers online through brand discovery, while also seeing a migration of consumer replenishment. In the third quarter, HOKA nearly doubled the number of consumers acquired on hokaoneone.com. The HOKA brand has made great strides in creating a seamless consumer experience through the entire brand ecosystem, which includes a strong network of wholesale partners and direct-to-consumer channels.
At the same time, our marketing efforts are focused on building brand awareness and driving consumer demand by highlighting the experiences made possible by HOKA products. The third quarter featured the launch of the HOKA brand's Time To Fly campaign, which tells real stories of human experiences with HOKA. The campaign kicked off with the Time To Reimagine video, which has garnered significant impressions across social platforms, helping drive more than a 50% increase in brand search interest, according to Google Trends. From a product perspective, the brand's iconic Clifton and Bondi styles continue gaining market share in the U.S. run specialty channel. According to NPD's Retail Tracking Service, HOKA claimed the number two brand ranking based on dollars over the summer and has maintained this position each month since, while gaining share at a steady pace.
While these gains are driven by the HOKA brand's strong partnership with wholesale accounts, the direct-to-consumer business continues to grow at a rapid pace. For the third consecutive quarter, the direct-to-consumer business doubled over the prior year. Helping to drive these gains, HOKA has also doubled the number of D2C purchasers aged 18-34 years old. This has been aided by the introduction of the Rincon and Carbon X styles, as both have over-indexed with younger consumers as compared to the brand average. The HOKA product and e-commerce teams have done an impressive job of collaborating to align on product launch timing to ensure the brand is consistently driving traffic to the website. During the quarter, the brand launched an update to its flagship trail running shoe, the Speedgoat 4.
The launch propelled the style's sales to more than double last year's third quarter volume, with over 50% the volume coming from our international region. The HOKA brand is also beginning to experience traction from the trail category beyond the Speedgoat. The Tor Ultra, featured as part of the brand's collaboration with the lifestyle brand Opening Ceremony, has sold well across both domestic direct- to- consumer and our Asia-Pacific wholesale channel. In terms of the HOKA brand's international business overall, the brand has reached an inflection point, as for the first time, units sold internationally for the quarter were higher than units sold domestically. We think this speaks well to the global opportunity and runway for HOKA. Moving to Teva and Sanuk, global sales in the third quarter were in line with expectations at $17 million and $8.5 million, respectively.
While Teva was down year-over-year due to a shift in the timing of European distributor orders, the brand is on track to deliver its full fiscal year. During the fourth quarter, Teva will be announcing a significant brand update to coincide with the launch of its spring 2020 product line. Meanwhile, the Sanuk brand declined as anticipated in our guidance, as it continued to face headwinds from the challenging surf specialty channel, as well as the brand's decision to exit warehouse distribution. The Sanuk team remains focused on exploring healthier distribution opportunities in an effort to reposition the brand. With respect to our Q3 channel performance, global wholesale sales increased 9% versus the prior year, driven primarily by domestic expansion in UGG, HOKA, and Koolaburra, as well as international expansion of HOKA.
It is worth noting that for the second consecutive year, our third quarter domestic wholesale revenue grew by double digits. International wholesale was slightly up versus the prior year due to growth in HOKA being largely offset by the UGG reset in EMEA, as well as negative pressure from foreign currency exchange rates. From a direct-to-consumer perspective, comparable sales increased 5% versus the prior year, with total direct-to-consumer sales up 6% versus the third quarter last year. E-commerce continues to drive gains in the DTC channel, which has been led by the strength of UGG and HOKA. The UGG brand's DTC growth was primarily driven by domestic sales online, which included moving our annual UGG Closet event up by one week compared to last year in order to improve our ability to capture end-of-season demand.
I'm very pleased by the execution of all of our brands to deliver Deckers' largest quarter in history. I'm looking forward to closing out another strong year of performance as we remain focused on delivering the fourth quarter. I'll now hand the call over to Steve to provide more details on our third quarter financial performance, as well as an updated outlook for the fourth quarter and full fiscal year.
Thanks, Dave. Good afternoon, everyone. As you just heard, our third quarter performance exceeded our expectation and speaks to the strength of our brands. The disciplined approach to investing in our brands has been a major driver of the organization's success this year, as we've been able to drive brand awareness with HOKA, build brand heat with UGG, including an emphasis on men's, and an increase in our engagement with consumers in the digital marketplace, all while maintaining top-tier levels of profitability. I'll now walk you through the third quarter results in more detail and provide an updated outlook for the fourth quarter and our full year fiscal 2020. Revenue was $939 million, up 7.4% versus last year and $39 million above the high end of our guidance range of $885 million-$900 million.
Of the better-than-expected revenue, approximately $8 million was driven by the HOKA brand with tremendous results across the globe with our wholesale partners as well as direct-to-consumer channel. $7 million was delivered by better-than-anticipated domestic UGG business, driven by net in-season reorders and led by the strength in kids business, the Neumel franchise, and the Fluff franchise, and approximately $3 million driven by reorders captured in the Koolaburra brand. With the balance of the upside performance largely timing related, as we captured sales earlier in Q3 that were previously anticipated in Q4, with approximately $15 million coming from the UGG DTC business and $5 million from earlier UGG wholesale shipments. While we saw growth domestically in the UGG brand beyond our expectations, we continue to see challenges as anticipated in the UGG brand's international business, which was impacted by both brand and macro issues in our European region.
Gross margins were up 30 basis points over last year to 54.1%. The gross margin result was approximately 100 basis points above our implied guidance, with the beat coming from lower promotional activity than planned in our UGG domestic wholesale business, delivering strong sell-in and high full-price sell-through for a third consecutive year. While the strength of the UGG domestic wholesale margins, paired with increased revenue, drove improvement above our expectations, we remain mindful of the dynamic promotional environment we continue to face as we did experience higher promotional activity in our international markets for the UGG brand as compared to last year.
From an expense standpoint, our dollar spend was up 11.8% to $251.9 million compared to last year's GAAP spend of $225.4 million and up 10.6% compared to last year's non-GAAP spend of $227.8 million. As a percentage of sales, expense delevered versus the prior year, which was aligned with our implied guidance, as we continue to invest in our key initiatives. The impact of these results drove earnings per share of $7.14, compared to last year's GAAP earnings per share of $6.68, last year's non-GAAP earnings per share of $6.59, and our guidance range of $6.30 - $6.40.
The $0.74 beat to the high end of our guidance range came from approximately $0.25 from sales in late December previously anticipated for early January, $0.25 from lower promotional activity in the UGG domestic wholesale business, $0.15 from better-than-expected HOKA results, and $0.10 from higher reorders in the UGG and Koolaburra brands' domestic wholesale business. For the quarter, our tax rate was 21.4% compared to our anticipated tax rate of 21%. Our balance sheet at December 31st remains strong as cash and equivalents were $617 million. Inventory was $366 million, up 7% versus the same point in time last year. We had $6.6 million in short-term borrowings under our credit line as compared to $600,000 last year.
With the delivery of the financial results that I've just shared with you, our third quarter execution has allowed us to once again raise our expectations for the full fiscal year. As we look forward, we place a high importance behind controlling our distribution in UGG, focusing on growth opportunities within the UGG brand, and fueling HOKA momentum across the globe. With that said, in our updated outlook for the fourth quarter of fiscal 2020, we expect sales to be in the range of $392 million-$402 million, and earnings per share in the range of $0.35-$0.45.
Fourth quarter revenue guidance compared to last year includes brand expectations of HOKA expected to increase in the high 40% range, Teva expected to increase in the mid to high teens inclusive of the planned distributor business shift into Q4, Koolaburra up high teens, Sanuk down approximately 50% due to the previously mentioned exit of the warehouse business in the quarter, and UGG expected to be down approximately 8%-11% due to ongoing reset and pressure in Europe, the previously mentioned timing shift into Q3, and while it's still early, a component of risk related to the potential lower DTC demand related to current travel restrictions in China. Fourth quarter earnings per share guidance is further impacted by planned expense growth as we continue to fuel our growth initiatives, and lower gross margins primarily due to the Teva brand's European distributor shift and continued currency pressure.
Moving to the full year outlook. With the over-performance of the quarter, we are now raising our outlook for the full year. For our fiscal year 2020 guidance, we are increasing revenue guidance to now be in the range of $2.15 billion-$2.16 billion, an increase of $20 million on the high end of our previous guidance range. Our updated outlook at the brand level includes UGG revenue, still expected to be flat to up low single digits. HOKA revenue is now expected to reach approximately $350 million. Teva's revenue is still expected to be approximately flat. Sanuk revenue is still expected to be down in the mid 30% range, and Koolaburra revenue is still expected to grow to approximately $70 million. Turning to the remainder of the P&L.
We are increasing our gross margin expectation to now be approximately 51.5% as we are passing through the lower promotional activity experienced in the third quarter and increasing our projection for the fourth quarter. SG&A as a percentage of sales are still expected to be slightly below 36%. We are raising our operating margin to now be at or slightly better than 15.5%, and we are raising our expected earnings per share to be in the range of $9.40-$9.50 on a share count of approximately 28.7 million shares, with the full-year tax rate still projected to be approximately 20.5%. Our updated guidance represents flowing through just over 50 basis points of improved operating margin, predominantly driven by the better-than-expected gross margin experienced in the third quarter.
This improved outlook for the fiscal year, which equates to a $0.45 raise in our EPS on the high end of our guidance, is driven by $0.25 from a lower promotional environment, $0.15 from the HOKA brand, and $0.05 from an improved outlook on the margins in the fourth quarter. Our guidance for the fourth quarter and fiscal year 2020 excludes any potential non-GAAP charges, as well as the effect of any future share repurchases. During our second quarter earnings call in October, we provided an annual update on our sheepskin pricing. Due to current events, I would like to remind everyone, we expect no change to our sheepskin costs for fiscal 2021. As is our normal course of business, we have contracts in place which are used to mitigate the impact of volatility within such commodity prices.
Please note that sheepskin costs are only one component of our gross margin, and this update does not constitute gross margin guidance for next year. With that, I will now turn it back to Dave for his closing remarks.
Thanks, Steve. As we are now in the final quarter of fiscal 2020, we are on track to deliver another year of accelerating top-line revenue growth. With our raised full-year guidance representing a 6%-7% increase over last year. Our results continue to demonstrate that our strategies are working and are at the foundation of our organization's continued evolution. This groundwork will enable us to approach opportunities ahead with confidence, and I look forward to updating you on next year's plans during our year-end earnings call in May. In closing, I'd like to share my appreciation for the collaborative efforts demonstrated by the entire Deckers organization in delivering our largest quarter in history. Thank you to all of our stakeholders for their continued support. With that, we are now ready for Q&A. Operator?
We will now begin the question- and- answer session. To ask a question, you may press star, then one on your touchtone phone. If you are using a speakerphone, please pick up your handset before pressing the keys. To withdraw your question, please press two. Please limit yourself to one question and to one follow-up. At this time, we'll pause momentarily to assemble our roster. Our first question will come from Jonathan Komp with Baird. Please go ahead.
Yeah. Hi, thank you. I just wanted to start maybe on the margin performance and maybe a broader question about the environment during the holiday. I mean, it didn't particularly look like the weather was helpful. Yet, UGG outperformed, and the margin was strong. So maybe just starting with why you think the margin exceeded your expectations, and then how to think about the fourth quarter, especially given the tough gross margin comparison there?
Hey, Jon, this is Dave. I'll give you some context, I'll let Steve get into the specifics on that. I think if you go back to the way the UGG team has been managing the brand in the marketplace, with clean distribution, quality distribution, and the diversification of product away from classics. We've said this before, we believe we're becoming less weather- reliant. That said, we did have pockets of upside based on weather throughout the quarter. I think what we've seen is the diversification of the product and how we're engaging with the consumers to drive that beyond weather-related products that we've had to struggle with in the past. Are also seeing healthy margins because full price sell-throughs were strong. Particularly in North American market, we didn't chase top line with promotional activity.
You're seeing some of that carry over into Q4. While the marketplace was challenging and department stores struggled in places, the strength of the brand, the diversification of the product, and then just focusing on full price quality sales for the health of the brand, short and long term, versus chasing the top line, those all contributed to it. We started off January a little bit soft in the North American wholesale channel, and DTC as well, just based on consumer trends. We've held clear on not promoting the brand at the expense of top line, and you're seeing that in the results.
Jon, this is Steve. As Dave said, I think what we saw was compelling product in the marketplace. We did have a nice setup, that definitely helped. Having a clean marketplace also helped. Going into the quarter cleaner in the wholesale channel was a good setup for us. We did have a nice start into the quarter. From what we implied in our guidance or have had in our guidance, we did better on the promotion side. That was largely driven in the domestic component of the business. We did have some promotion related to the international, but from what we were thinking would happen, it was about 60 - 80 basis points, probably a little bit better in the quarter than what we had thought related to the promotion.
Just a note on Q4, with kind of a strong clean sell-through, we've increased our margin on Q4, so we removed some of that conservative promotional that we had factored into Q4.
Yeah. The last thing on Q3, it was also helped by the strength of UGG men's at 10% growth as well as kids, augmenting some of the diversification efforts.
Great. Maybe just looking forward for the UGG brand, I got two questions. One, just when you look at some of the non-cold weather seasonal categories, so the sneakers and sandals, the men's, some of the other categories, maybe just highlight some of the drivers you have coming up for UGG there. Just separately, the Europe reset, maybe any kind of status update on where you think you are versus how long you think the reset actions may still be ongoing?
As we mentioned in the script, there's a couple franchises that are merging within UGG brand that are really resonating with the younger consumer and providing what we think is healthy long-term opportunity. The first is the Neumel franchise. We've been building that in the men's business over the last couple of years, and we had a major campaign called Neumel Nation this fall, which helped tremendously to drive that business as well as iterations in men's. We've also expanded that now into women's, and it's become a top five style in the women's business and into kids. It's resonating with a younger, more diverse consumer, and that's creating some excitement in the brand. That's a franchise that we will definitely continue to build on both domestically and internationally.
The other one, which we've talked a lot about this year, is the Fluff franchise. That showed continued strength this past quarter. It's a big part of our focus going into Q4 and Q1 of next year. We have a lot of innovation in the pipeline that we think is going to be really exciting and expanding that franchise beyond just the current use occasion and also eventually getting some traction in the men's business as well. We've actually had a lot of demand from our male consumers for Fluff Yeah product. Extending that into kids as well. Those would be the two lead franchises. In addition to that, we are going aggressively after the sneaker opportunity as we have been in key markets.
We just had an exciting launch in Paris, just recently, with a Japanese retail partner, and really continuing to ignite some excitement for the brand at the high-end PR level and with exciting collaborations and influencers. With regards to EMEA, we've talked about this for a couple of quarters now. We're in the midst of a multi-year reset there. I'd say we're probably just getting through year one of that reset. It's very similar to what we went through with the U.S. three or four years ago, cleaning up inventory, cleaning up distribution, focusing on controlling full price sell-through of the classics. It's a little bit more challenging there because we can't influence prices in the market like we can in the U.S., but we're working through that.
There's also some macro issues happening in the U.K., particularly in the Europe business right now, with the retail and then Brexit, et cetera. We're taking it slow. We're looking at this from a long-term perspective, controlling the marketplace, and as I said, we're not chasing discounting to keep the top line going. That's what's great about the strength in domestic business, is we can afford to make some of those resets in EMEA for the health of the long term. We'll continue to focus on elevating that and maintain the strength of the Classics business through the next couple of years.
Okay. That's great. I appreciate all the thoughts.
You bet.
Our next question will come from Tom Nikic with Wells Fargo. Please go ahead.
Good afternoon, guys. This is Matt Gulmi on for Tom. Congrats on a good quarter. Just a couple of questions here. First on UGGs. How do inventories look at retail coming out of the holidays? Another strong quarter for HOKA. Just wondering at what point you guys think about expanding distribution of the brand? Then I have one follow- up on margins.
Okay. This is Steve. I'll take the UGG and the channel inventory. Still good. It's up a little bit from where we were a year ago, but comfortable with the levels really that we're seeing. The feedback that we've gotten, really good, strong sell-through in Q3. I think we feel good about where the inventories sit coming out of the quarter.
With regards to HOKA, this is an exciting story not only for Deckers but also for the marketplace internationally. As we said in the call, in the script, we had success in the quarter in all regions and all channels. The momentum of the brand is exceptional, and we think things are going to continue to accelerate. From a distribution standpoint, I think one of the things that is working very well is the tight control of distribution. We don't have a really broad-based distribution expansion planned in the short term. We are exploring a couple of smaller options that we'll test in the short term, but really, really focused on maintaining our positioning and taking more share in the run specialty channel globally, enhancing our outdoor distribution. REI is a critical and key partner of ours, and we're having great success with them and others.
That playbook is being implemented also in Europe and our APAC regions. Really driving replenishment and new acquisition opportunities through our own e-commerce site, and the growth in that channel, as you're seeing in the business, but also in the margin, is very strong as well. We're going to continue down this path. We're calling it the HOKA ecosystem, where we showcase the brand in a tight, elevated distribution at wholesale and drive additional purchases to our website. We're going to stay the course on that for a while.
That's very helpful. Thanks. Just last one on margins. There's been a lot of SG&A spend this year relative to recent memory. Should we think of this year as peak investment year, or how should we think about that?
Yeah. I think I'll take this one, and Dave can jump in. I think one of the things that we have seen, especially as a lot of the work that we've done, as part of our profit improvement plan, we had taken a lot of expense out. As we're rebuilding brand heat, as we're moving into some of the new initiatives, we are investing in those initiatives, and that's where you're seeing the increase in the current year. It's delivering results. We think the spend is appropriate this year. We'll give guidance on how we're looking at next year, but we're investing more in marketing, so we're increasing that variable component of our spend. It's something that we're going to be able to watch closely.
It's an important part with the brands growing as rapidly as they are, that we continue to fuel that through marketing investment.
Yeah. I would say overall, we have an excellent handle on the SG&A across the organization, and the teams have done an incredible job of making sure we're tight in areas that we can leverage, but also identifying our key growth drivers across the organization, which we've talked about in HOKA and UGG men's, ultimately getting to apparel, Koolaburra. I think we're just in a unique position where we've right-sized the organization. We have very healthy mid-teen operating margins, we're allowed the opportunity to further invest in the growth of these brands, which we need to do. It's a very competitive environment. We're fighting for share in all of our channels. We have some challenges in EMEA that we need to work through.
Steve and I and the teams are managing this very tightly, shifting expenses from fixed to variable and being able to adjust based on the growth of the brands and the results we're seeing in revenue, but also the return on marketing spend. We're very happy with how things are going there. We're confident that we're making investments in the right places, and we're seeing those returns. As long as that's the case, we're going to continue to fuel it.
Helpful. Thanks, guys. Congrats on the quarter.
Great. Thanks.
Thanks, Matt.
Our next question will come from Dana Telsey with Telsey Advisory Group. Please go ahead.
Good afternoon, everyone, and congratulations on the results. As you think about the same-store sales that you generated this quarter, what were the components and complexion of the comps that were delivered? Lastly, on the European business, what is your timeframe for the Europe business, and what should we look at in terms of stepping stones to show the progress going forward? Thank you.
I'll take the first one. Dana, o ur DTC comp was up 4.7%. As you know, we don't break out retail and e-com, but clearly, e-com performed very strongly. I think retail, for the most part, was kind of within our expectations, but down. It's something that we're constantly looking at. It's something that we've talked about really for the last couple of years, of how we're shaping our fleet and how we're improving performance. Something that we're going to continue to monitor. Clearly, retail plays an important strategic element in how we go to market, and so that's going to be a continued area that we're going to look at. It's something that we are working on and improving in some of the stores that have been underperforming. For those that have underperformed, we've closed.
That's something that we'll continue to monitor and work as we progress along.
Yeah. With regards to the European business, just to clarify, that is an UGG-specific challenge that we're having in the EMEA region. I would say, Dana, we're coming out of year one of a three-year reset. Obviously, some declines that we had planned for and some challenges that I mentioned. I would expect to see really the real indicator of brand consideration in that marketplace. We track that on a regular basis, we'll do our best to keep everyone updated through our quarterly calls. We have a lot of internal conversations around marketing, using local influencers versus global influencers. We're ramping up our digital marketing tools in that region to really drive excitement and brand consideration. I would say probably in FY 2021, you start to see the business level out with return to growth in FY 2022 at this point.
Thank you.
Our next question will come from Sam Poser with Susquehanna. Please go ahead.
Good afternoon. Thank you for taking my question. Can we talk a little bit about China and the consumer, and what you're seeing initially with the coronavirus as well as, I know you don't have a lot of production there now, but also what you're seeing with the timing of production out of China as well?
Yeah. I'll start with that, and Dave can jump in. I think, as we said, we do have a factor in there a little bit on more the demand side. From a supply side, most of our product is coming out of Vietnam. We haven't seen, at this point, any disruption from a supply- side issue. As I said, we have put in an element around the demand related to China and restrictions in China. As I also said, it's still very early. It's really hard to know where this is going to go and how it's going to end up. At this point, with the majority of our supply coming out of Vietnam from a supply issue, we're in good shape. We'll see how things develop.
Yeah. I don't really have much more to add on to that. I think it's kind of a wait- and- see, not just for us in the marketplace, what this does to the global Chinese consumer, and impacts in other regions, and the retail business as a result of that. We do have teams in Shanghai. We have team in Guangzhou. They are a challenge. As Steve said, to the rest of the business right now, we think we've quantified. There may be a little bit of impact on internal development work over the next few months, but we don't see that as a significant impact to the business going forward. We're obviously going to continue to monitor it closely and also keeping a close eye on the health and the well-being of our teams.
Secondly, in regard to HOKA, I have a couple questions there. What percentage is domestic versus international, and then is t hat entire DTC is digital, i s that correct?
Yeah. The DTC is all digital at this point. Yes. Correct. Back to the mix, Steve?
Yeah. On the HOKA breakout, we haven't given specific numbers. From a dollar perspective, I think we're about $93.1 million, a little less on domestic, and $31.0 million kind of international.
Yeah. As we also mentioned, this is the first time that we saw unit sales in the international business eclipse that in the U.S. Keep in mind there, it's largely a much bigger portion of wholesale business than a large distributor business. The average price on a product there is lower because of that. We're excited about the unit growth, which means more shoes on more feet across the globe, which means adoption is increasing. It just gives us more excitement around the opportunity internationally.
When would you go to a JV and subsidiary there? At what scale do you need to think about flipping it out of the distributor model and into a subsidiary or JV model?
Yeah, nothing to share there right now. We're continuing to evaluate opportunities for that long term, in all regions. Right now we're staying the course and building brand health in our subsidiary markets, supporting the distributors. We have actually done that with our Canadian market, so this will be the first year in FY 2021 that is fully owned and run by us. We did that in Japan about three or four years ago, and it's proved very successful. It's something we're considering as we look at the long-term strategic outlook of this and making sure that operationally we are ready to do that if we get to that point.
All right. Thanks very much and c ontinue the success.
Thanks, Sam.
Our next question will come from Jim Duffy with Stifel. Please go ahead.
Hi, this is Peter McGoldrick on for Jim. Thanks for taking my question. I was first interested, as HOKA continues to deliver upside to the plan, where are you seeing the increases in brand recognition? Further, could you speak to the brand marketing and product strategy as you look to recruit younger consumers? Has this evolved at all as you've grown with scale?
Yeah. I think, to answer the question, two areas that we're seeing work well is new product introductions, so the Carbon X and the Rincon. Those are resonating with the younger consumer, consumers who want to go faster, but still want the overall benefits from the cushion experience that HOKA provides. We're going to continue to do that, and we're going to continue the formula where we're using real consumer experiences in HOKA products to tell that. Leveraging the Time To Fly campaign, making sure that we're reaching diverse consumers as we have been, and really cultivating younger consumers through some of the efforts that the field marketing reps are doing across the region. Continuing to show up in the right events globally, staying authentic to the channel, continuing to innovate at a fast pace.
What's great now about the breadth of the brand is it is being adopted by a large, diverse consumer across the board, and we are seeing growth, and excitement, and penetration into the younger consumer. We're just going to continue to cultivate that, and you'll see that in increased marketing spend and the approach that we're taking. In the product pipeline, we'll continue to build on the successes that we've had in our core franchises of Bondi, Clifton, and Speedgoat. The Carbon X product is going to continue to evolve, and we're looking at great opportunities to expand that across the board. We're very pleased with the introduction of the Rincon product and see that as a key evolution going forward as well.
Thank you. On the sourcing situation, I know that you're locked in on sheepskin for next year. Given the drought and fire situations in Australia, can you help us think about any risks that you may be considering for fiscal 2022 or the size of any exposure there?
Yeah. Normally, we give that update, but I can give you just a little bit of clarity. We're covered into 2022, so we're fully covered for 2021, and we're comfortably covered for 2022. We'll be able to provide more of an update. The supply that we have locked in, we feel comfortable with the position that we have, really, definitely over the next year and well into 2022.
Yeah. In addition to that, keep in mind that we have been leveraging the development of UGGpure and materials as an alternative to pure sheepskin. That's growing as a proportion to the line as we get into more diverse products and more fashionable product, and different price points. That balances out the demand for pure, Twin- face sheepskin. It's also helping margin and retail opportunities as well.
Okay, last one. With holiday 2019 in the bag, can you give us an update on how big the core classics franchise is and how much bigger that is than any emergent franchises like Neumel or Fluff, yeah?
Yeah. Total women's classics, we've been hovering in the last few years below 50%. We're now turning closer to 40%, just above 40%. Part of that is on purpose with how we're controlling distribution allocation of the women's classics franchise. Some of that is also bolstered by the fact that you are seeing success in men's and other key areas, such as the Fluff Yeah. That strategy is working. We have more progress that we need to make in the international markets, because those are still a little bit more heavily penetrated, some of the core classics. As the adoption of the Neumel and the Fluff and other categories increases in those markets, and we finish out the segmentation and allocation work, we hope to see the same results in those international markets and being less reliant overall.
All right. Thank you very much.
Thank you.
Our next question will come from Paul Lejuez with Citi Research. Please go ahead.
Hey, guys. Paul Lejuez. Just curious how you're thinking about the long-term margin in the HOKA business and how you balance the pace of margin expansion with investments necessary in that business. Also curious on HOKA, what percent of the HOKA business is footwear versus other categories, and how do you see that progressing over the next several years? Thanks.
I'll answer the second question first, then I'll let Steve answer the first one. Currently, HOKA is probably about 99% footwear. When we look at the long-range opportunity in the brand, and we've talked about getting to and beyond the $500 million point, there's a lot of runway still within just footwear. We're incubating apparel. There's going to be a launch that's coming out in the next quarter, which is a D2C-only launch in the U.S., to see what the appetite is for apparel and test. The teams are 100% focused on evolving the footwear business, continuing to take market share. We do see longer term, three to five years down the road, that this can be a much bigger brand beyond just footwear, and we think apparel and gear as an opportunity within that as well.
Paul Lejuez, the way we're thinking about the margin, it depends on a number of factors. Clearly, on the domestic business where we have opportunity for margin improvement is with migration of more customers online, and we have seen that happening. That's helping drive some upside on the margin. As we've talked about before, as consumers are introduced to the brand through the wholesale channel, there is a migration online as they get further down into repeat purchases. We're continuing to see that trend, probably a little bit stronger than what we earlier identified. To the question earlier that we got, as we look at international markets, the further opportunity there is how we capture sales both from our own markets and the wholesale distributor markets, conversion to online business.
A lot more opportunity to drive to higher margin business, but we're still growing the brand. We're bringing customers in. It's about how we're bringing customers in through all channels. As they further engage with the brand, our opportunity is how we engage with them online and drive that margin further.
Yeah, the mix of online business as a percentage of the total, as that increases, obviously the margin gets exponentially better, and we're able to capture that consumer for the long-term lifetime value of that sale. Our digital marketing efforts and our return on digital marketing spend against our website is exceptional, so we're going to continue to fuel that at the pace of the growth that we're seeing.
Thanks. Can I just go back to the China question for a second? Can you just remind us what percentage of your sales are in China? I think you didn't indicate any sort of a percentage of your sourcing coming from China. Did you mean to imply that you don't have anything sourced in China at this point? I'm just curious what that percentage is? Thanks.
Yeah. Just right now, where we're at with sourcing coming from China is just about 10%, maybe a little bit less. We've factored that into what we spoke about earlier with the risk and then the long-range view of the company and margin opportunity.
Got it. 10% of sales?
10% of, yeah, shipments that are at risk coming out of that market. As you know, the teams have done a fantastic job. I have to give them credit for migrating out of China over the last three years. Not only have we quickly migrated to new markets in Vietnam and beyond, but the quality of our product has improved over time, and the margins have improved as a result.
Got it. Then percent of sales from China?
I don't know if we've given that before.
Yeah. What we've said specifically to that is, one, kind of in the current quarter, what we factored in China is still relatively small. In terms of international markets, we've said about 50% of that's Europe, 40%-ish of that is APAC. When you look at APAC, it's now kind of split between China and Japan largely.
Okay. Thank you. Good luck.
Okay. Thanks, Paul.
Our next question will come from Mitch Kummetz with Pivotal Research. Please go ahead.
Yes, thanks for taking my questions. Dave, I was hoping you could give a little bit more color on the UGG men's business. I think you said it was up 10% in the quarter. What percent of total UGG is men's now? It sounded like Neumel was particularly strong. I don't know if you could speak to how much year-over-year growth you saw in Neumel? Then I have a follow-up.
Right now, men's, it's tracking as we planned it. As you know, we've been talking about this for the last few years now and migrating men to a younger, more fashion-oriented consumer with different distribution away from the traditional slipper and Classic business. We're now at about 15% of the total penetration. We think the potential there is closer to 20% over time. It's really being driven by the Neumel franchise and some of the winter boots in that business. The Neumel has continued to resonate both at core distribution, but also at new distribution like Foot Locker and Footaction, real strength in Journeys. We've opened up some sport lifestyle distribution in the EMEA market, which is starting to perform well.
It hasn't resonated to the same extent in Europe and Asia that it has in the U.S. yet. It's in early days of introduction of that consumer. We're leveraging the marketing playbook that has worked well in the U.S., which is collaborations and high-level influencers and ambassadors for the brand, showing the product in a new and exciting way. We're going to continue down that path. At the same time, we're seeing success in derivatives of that, the Harkland boot, which is a little bit slimmer and more appropriate to an international consumer, leveraging the Butte franchise, which is our leading winter boot.
Leveraging existing styles like the Tasman slipper, which is also being worn by younger high school, college-age students. We feel good about the reach of the consumer and the diversity of the product, and the teams are working very fast to iterate as much as we can on these and then take advantage of the opportunity. As I mentioned earlier on, there is also opportunity, we think, in the Fluff franchise to translate that to the male consumer as well.
Got it. That's helpful. Thanks. Then Steve, just really quickly on the Q3 beat, I think you said that roughly $20 million of the sales upside was timing, $5 million of that was wholesale, and I get that. You should be able to see if there are orders pulled forward or not. Then you also said that $15 million was DTC. I just want to have a better sense as to how you gauge the timing of DTC. How do you know that that's timing versus just outperformance in the quarter?
Good question. One thing we did this year is we pulled forward our UGG Closet event. Last year, we had it in January. This year, we pulled it into the last week of December. We saw two things. One, we saw it perform, but we saw it perform better than what we expected, and we did see a corresponding low to the start of January. That was a case where we saw product selling stronger in that last week, where we thought some of that might trickle really into the first part of January. Capturing that sale late in December and the low, we put to timing as people were buying the product earlier because of the like sales.
Yeah. I think that makes sense.
Yep. All right. Thanks, guys. Good luck.
Okay.
Thanks.
Pardon me, everyone. We will now take the last question of the call from Janine Stichter with Jefferies. Please go ahead.
Hi. Thanks for fitting me in, and congratulations. Just a little more on HOKA. Really impressive growth there. Is there anything in terms of capacity constraints that would prohibit you from growing at the level that you've been growing in the coming quarters? Also just one on Koolaburra. I know it's been a small brand, but all of a sudden, it's kind of becoming a little bit more noticeable. How should we think about the potential growth there? If you could just help us understand how much of the growth is coming from expanded distribution versus just better sell-through with your existing partners? Thank you.
Yeah, this is Dave. On the capacity, it's a great question. First, I would say I give the teams a lot of credit. This explosive growth is a lot more than we had anticipated or planned for. The teams have been able to quickly chase not only production capacity, but materials, and be able to keep the flow of inventory in those core products, to the extent that we're not really missing sales, but we are capitalizing on the opportunity. We've had great discussions internally on making sure that we are preparing for continued acceleration of that brand, working closely with our partners.
The teams have been over in China within the last month and a half, working closely with our factory partners, both on machinery to be able to produce the shoes, but also the capacity. We feel really good about our opportunity to continue this rate of growth. With regards to Koolaburra, we are very excited about the reaction to the brand by the consumer, how that brand is performing at retail, and at the retail prices that consumers are paying for it. We have had a great, obviously, initial launch over the last couple of years with Kohl's. Footwear business is strong. We actually just launched, if you guys haven't noticed, this fall we had a home launch with them through our licensed partner, which was also very successful at Kohl's. We are looking at ways to expand that as well. We are not really looking to expand distribution for Kohl's.
It's really around penetration and existing partners. There's opportunity to expand the business in Europe. We had a soft launch this fall. Things went well. We had some little bit of late deliveries on product, so we didn't capitalize on the full opportunity, but it is going to be something that we're going to continue to go after. We're looking at this longer term as not just a footwear brand, but really a lifestyle brand, and we're incubating business opportunities to be able to capture that now.
That's helpful. Thank you very much.
Thank you.
Thank you.
This concludes our question- and- answer session, as well as our conference. Thank you for attending today's presentation. You may now disconnect.