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Earnings Call: Q1 2016
Oct 27, 2015
Good day, and welcome to Conference Call. Today's call is being recorded. At this time, for opening remarks and introductions, I would like to turn the call over to Global Head of Investor Relations and Corporate Communications at Coach, Andrea Shaw Resnick.
Good morning, and thank you for joining us. With me today to discuss our quarterly results are Victor Luis, Coach's Chief Executive Officer and Jane Nielsen, Coach's CFO. Andre Cohen, President, North America is also joining us. Before we begin, we must point out that this conference call will involve certain forward looking statements, including projections for our business in the current or future quarters or fiscal years. These statements are based upon a number of continuing assumptions.
Future results may differ materially from our current expectations based upon a number of important factors, including risks and uncertainties such as expected economic trends or our ability to anticipate consumer preferences, control costs, successfully execute our transformation initiatives and growth strategies or our ability to achieve intended benefits, cost savings and synergies from the Stuart Weitzman acquisition. Please refer to our latest annual report on Form 10 ks and our other filings with the Securities and Exchange Commission for a complete list of risks and important factors. Please note that historical trends may not be indicative of future performance. Also, certain financial information and metrics that will be discussed today will be presented on a non GAAP basis, which you may identify by the terms non GAAP, constant currency or excluding charges associated with financing, short term purchase accounting adjustments and contingent payments and integration costs. You may find the corresponding GAAP financial information or metric as well as the related reconciliation on our website, www.coach.com/investors and then viewing the earnings release posted today.
Now let me outline the speakers and topics for this conference call. Victor Luis will provide an overall summary of our 1st fiscal quarter 2016 milestones and learnings and will also discuss our progress on global initiatives. Andre Cohn will speak to our North America business product performance and review our key programs for the holiday season. Jay Nielsen will follow with details on financial and operational results for the quarter along with our outlook for FY 2016. After that, we will hold a question and answer session.
This Q and A session will end shortly before 9:30 am. Victor will then conclude with some brief summary comments. I'd now like to introduce Victor Luis, Cochise' CEO.
Good morning. Thank you, Andrea, and welcome, everyone. As noted in our press release, we are pleased with our Q1 performance, which was consistent with our plan and reflected continued progress on our transformation journey. We drove further sequential improvement in our North America bricks and mortar business, led as expected by our retail stores, with this momentum continuing into the 2nd quarter. Our international businesses posted moderate growth on a constant currency basis, highlighted by double digit increases in Europe cumulative impact of our actions will result in a return to top line growth in FY 2016 and positive North American comps by the end of the year.
Importantly, we continue to successfully execute our brand transformation strategies in the quarter across our 3 key brand pillars product, stores and marketing. Stewart Beaver's new products have been very well received by customers across geographies. Our modern luxury stores globally and across channels are performing well and we're especially pleased with the ongoing positive comps we're generating in the North American retail stores, which have been renovated as we anniversaried the delivery of Stewart's first collection in September. And we kicked off our 75th anniversary celebrations by hosting our first true runway show during New York Fashion Week, receiving great engagement, editorial reviews and positive trade feedback. We've also been pleased with Stuart Weitzman's integration into the Coach Inc.
Family. During the quarter, Stuart Weitzman's performance was consistent with our annual guidance. We continue to see Stuart Weitzman gain traction internationally, notably in Asia, where the brand is still nascent, but has significant long term potential. Now, as has been our recent practice, I'd like share some of the actions we've taken to build momentum across our 3 key brand pillars of product, stores and marketing. Starting with product, where Coach is clearly emerging as a house of design.
During Q1, essentially all of our retail stores offering, both men's and women's were Viver's designs. In handbags, we built on the success of Swagger with new colors and shapes, including a carry off silhouette. We also introduced 2 new handbags, the Ace and Nomad, which were very well received and reflect our new elevated design direction and focus on Coach's heritage glove tanned leather. Edie, which was introduced in new sizes, continued to do well, as did the functional and stylish turn lock tote. And in all markets globally, we have seen a positive change in trend in our retail comp, driven by new product and our modern luxury stores.
In outlet, we continue to increase the offering of Stuart's designs with key new styles such as Blake and the Ava Tote. Novelty, including exotic trim, metallic and studded cross grain trended well, all at higher AURs. By the September floor set, Stewart's product represented about 3 quarters of the assortment across both genders. Of course, we were extremely excited to host our 1st complete runway show in September in the custom built structure next to the High Line in front of what will be our new headquarters building. The show, which was live streamed, garnered international acclaim and overwhelmingly positive editorial.
During the show, we debuted Coach 1941, named after the date Coach was founded in New York City 75 years ago. The collection features ready to wear and a pinnacle assortment of bags and accessories with an emphasis on leather creativity and craftsmanship. Coach experimental. With the highest level of detailing and leather expertise, it's where the Coach brand explores the notion of what luxury and quality mean in a young modern context. In addition, Coach 1941 provides us with a distribution opportunity both internationally and domestically with many key specialty accounts and luxury department stores.
Today, we are seeing interest from Pinnacle specialty retailers that have not traditionally offered the Coach brand, such as Collette, Selfridges, Opening Ceremony, Saks, Nordstrom and others. We are thrilled by the reaction that Stewart's collection is generating and we see it as a clear vote of confidence for our strategic and creative direction. On stores, we are continuing to establish our new modern luxury concept stores globally, renovating and opening over 30 during the quarter and we're on target to end the year at 40% of our doors in the new format. Consistent with plan, these renovations have been driving significant inflections from previous trends in comps, which exceeded the balance of the fleet in the vast majority of stores around the world. We've also seen our new retail and outlet modern luxury stores meeting or exceeding their targets in aggregate.
And as part of our global flagship strategy, we opened our 1st Paris store earlier this month, a 6,500 Square Foot store on Roussaint Honore in one of the city's most prestigious shopping districts. This opening is a pivotal moment for our developments across Europe and reflective of our strategy to drive increased fashion relevance. In addition, we just announced that we will be relocating our Regent Street store in London to a new flagship location, also our Regent Street, but more desirable location where we will also be opening a separate Stuart Weitzman store, bringing the 2 brand stores to one iconic location on this desirable thoroughfare. And as discussed on our last call, we are also close to finalizing the location for a Coach flagship on 5th Avenue to open in calendar In North American department stores, we completed over 70 additional case line conversions. We also continue to expect to renovate about 50 shop in shop locations to modern luxury in FY 2016.
Finally, we have about 30 shop managers in place today and are beginning to see a real impact versus balance of chain and expect to hire another 20 by the end of the year. On the marketing front, we remain committed to creating desire for the Coach brand and further increasing our share of voice globally. To this end, we amplified our September New York Fashion Week runway show worldwide across our digital and social platforms driving over 800,000,000 impressions, approximately 5 those generated during the fall 2015 New York Fashion Week presentation of this past February. We ranked in Vogue's top 10 shows of New York Fashion Week and were the 4th most Instagram show of the week. Also in September, we launched our fall fashion campaign, again shot by Steven Meisel, and we will soon introduce our holiday campaign featuring Chloe Grace Moretz for the 2nd season.
We also teamed up with the New York Yankees becoming their official luxury accessory brand, capping the season with an event with legend, Mariano Rivera here in New York City. Leveraging our history and heritage with Glove Tan Leather and a well worn baseball glove that inspired the Coach brand 75 years ago. This association is uniquely ownable by Coach and will drive awareness and engagement with core male consumers. And as we increased our positive brand impressions, we've also continued to pull back on our North American promotional activity, notably further reducing the number of EOS events from prior year. As a result of these efforts, we are seeing continued progress with consumers.
Our quarterly North America brand tracking survey fielded in September showed an improvement among category drivers that Coach has perceived as less promotional, while our brand affinities are strong among premium retail purchases overall. So as our plans unfold and we continue to show steady update you on these initiatives as we move forward. Turning now to a discussion of global category trends. Overall, we estimate that the North American premium women's handbag and accessories market rose at a low single digit rate in the September quarter, in line with recent trends. Importantly, against this backdrop, Coach's sales of women's bags and accessories, while still negative, once again improved sequentially in North America.
And of course, as a lifestyle and multi brand company, we also participate in categories outside of women's bags and accessories. Men's is now at about 17% of our global net sales. We continue to believe it is a growth opportunity for the brand and are forecasting mid single digit growth during FY 2016. Over our planning horizon, men's remains a $1,000,000,000 opportunity. We also recently brought our men's footwear in house, including production management, where we were previously only doing design.
While the business is still in its infancy, we have been very pleased with initial results. And of course, we also remain focused on building Coach Inc. Market share within the fragmented men's and women's 27 $1,000,000,000 global premium footwear category, which we estimate will grow at a mid single digit pace over our planning horizon. Looking ahead, we see significant growth opportunities for the Stuart Weitzman and Coach brands. While Jane will provide additional details on sales and distribution by geography, we wanted to touch on some current trends and strategies by market.
So I'll turn it over to Andre for a discussion of North America. Andre?
Thanks, Victor. As you read in our release, for the quarter, our total Coach brand sales in North America were down 11% as reported and 10% in constant currency. Our direct business, excluding wholesale, was down 12% as reported and 11% in constant currency. For the quarter, in aggregate and as planned, our total store comp improved sequentially led by retail. It was down 8% with high ticket offset by a decline in traffic, which was hurt in part by the overall weak mall trends as well as lower conversion.
Our total comp was pressured an additional 1.5 points by EOS as we pulled back from about 1 flash sale event a week in last year's Q1 or 13 in total to about 2 events a month or 7 in total, 2 in July, 3 in August and 2 in September, in line with the second half of FY twenty fifteen and our plan. Looking at results sequentially, both conversion and traffic comp improved from 4th quarter levels, driving the comp uptick in our bricks and mortar stores as elevated fashion and compelling novelty styles drove improved handbag performance. And even as we've anniversaried the arrival of Stuart's elevated product in retail, we continued to see strength in the channel through October. This further underscores our confidence in building to a positive North American comp by the Q4, again led by the improvement in our retail stores with the most significant driver being conversion. Now turning to our retail performance and the metrics we traditionally share on product.
The above $400 price bracket held in penetration saw another positive comp on a unit basis and represented nearly 30% of handbag sales matching last year. The below $300 price bracket also grew in penetration and posted a positive comp, benefiting from our focus on essentials and achieving balance in the assortment, which bodes particularly well for holiday. As has been the case for quite a while, leather continued to outpace logo across all channels. In the Q1, logo across all categories represented less than 5% of North America retail sales. And in outlet, it was roughly 30%, down year over year in both channels.
Now on stores. As Victor mentioned, we've been very pleased with the performance of our modern Luxury stores, particularly in the North America retail channel, where comps remain positive. And in the outlet channel, to date, we've also seen an improvement in trend post renovation and relative out performance versus the balance of outlet stores. We remain on target to renovate about 60 stores this year with approximately half expected to be completed prior to Black Friday. In addition to the physical changes to our stores, we've also changed our labor and staffing model, notably in retail, with a heightened focus on full time store associates to create stronger relationships with our customers.
Over the next year, we'll be adding craftsmanship bars to select flagship stores globally, providing customization options and leather services such as monogramming, harkening back to our roots as a leather goods manufacturer. We're also in the process of introducing a tier of leather services to all of our retail stores globally. Also in support of the customer experience, we continue to refine our modern luxury hosting ceremony, and we've also just introduced a new store associate uniform globally. Turning to event marketing. As you know, over the last 15 months, we've changed our approach to customer events in the retail channel, resulting in a significant reduction in promotional activity on a year over year basis in FY 2015.
In terms of learnings, as noted on the last call, we found that our semi annual open sales, which will be known as the winter sale and the summer sale going forward, have served as recruitment vehicles for new customers. As a result, this year, we will hold 2 shorter duration open sale events over traffic periods, including Black Friday, with the intent of attracting new retail customers. As in the case of our original semiannual open sale, we'll kick off the event with a VIP preview with a tiered offer and then open it up to the public. At the same time, we've adjusted the cadence and further reduced our closed targeted customer events to 2 a year, the first of which was held as planned in September with the next expected in the second half of FY twenty sixteen. Importantly, we continue to evolve and optimize the timing and type of events.
Our goal is to further reduce the number of days on promotion in our retail channel in FY 2016. Looking ahead to holiday and applying our learnings from last year, our goal is to be a bolder destination for gifting with a balanced assortment and broader offering at opening price points. We'll incorporate seasonal fashion elements such as shearling, metallic and glitter across all categories for both men's and women's creating an emotional and compelling offering for the season. Specifically in retail, we will first continue our focus on brand elevation and fashion with Nomad, a sophisticated shoulder bag in Glove Tan Leather at $4.95 that's performed incredibly well. 2nd, animate essentials and build on our craftsmanship message through platforms such as Patchwork and Color Block Exotics in key silhouettes, including Edie, Prairie and Crosby.
And with new silhouettes, such as the Turnloc tote, a very versatile bag with broad appeal at
$
boxes across women's and men's. Finally, we'll also be a bolder destination for men's with key new silhouettes focused on backpacks and incorporating seasonal fashion elements such as prints, color blocks and varsity tea stripes. As we move into holiday for North America outlets, we're excited about our continued product innovation in this channel. At the end of the Q1, we introduced the Blake collection and have seen great early success notably with the carry on and shoulder bag silhouettes. Blake was launched at a premium price in outlets and we continue to see that our customer will pay higher prices for great fashion items that are proprietary to Coach.
Building on the success of our Phoebe and Christie collections, we're introducing updates to these best selling items with additional hardware details and a broader range of sizes as we expand these collections across a broad range of colors in leather and logo options. For holiday, outlet will offer compelling and emotional novelty items featuring 3 key stories that are aligned with our global message: Shearling, metallic and glitter. We'll also have an increased presence of gift sets at 3 times the investment we had last year, providing a robust offer of gifts under $100 for both women and men. We will be supporting these holiday initiatives and expressing the warmth of the season in our advertising, showing Chloe in beautiful shilling carrying the new metallic swagger projecting fun and optimism. Our gift guide both in store and digital will be bright and bold featuring more Coach pups.
And our store windows globally will feature an oversized snowflake comprised of the Coach codes including the iconic turn lock. In summary, we are encouraged by our performance and excited for holiday. We believe that our initiatives across the brand pillars will drive an inflection in North America comp in the Q2. And now turning it back to Victor for international.
Thanks, Andre. Moving on to international, most generally and similar to North America, we're distorting our focus in developed markets towards maximizing productivity. We're taking a portfolio approach to our store base, investing in our best locations where we'll see the biggest return and where appropriate. While in developing markets, we're continuing to open stores, taking advantage of real estate opportunities. In all markets, we are increasing marketing and investing in the modern luxury store experience using elements such as the craftsmanship bars currency, in line with annual target with double digit growth on the Mainland and with positive comps offsetting weak results in Hong Kong and Macau.
Despite some macro slowdown and stock market gyrations in China, we remain confident in our $625,000,000 for FY 2016 even at current exchange rates and optimistic on the prospects for this market over the long term as the drivers we've consistently mentioned are more relevant than ever. It is important to note that we do see the Chinese tourists as an increasingly large part of our business globally, and we have experienced the strengthening in Chinese tourist spending, notably in Japan and Europe. We are staffing into this trend, increasing the number of Mandarin speaking store associates in these geographies. To that end, and as expected, Japan sales were up 6% on a constant currency basis, benefiting from increased tourist flows from mainland Chinese. On a dollar basis, sales declined 10%, reflecting the weaker yen.
While Japan is a mature market where we are distorting investment to our high profile Tokyo stores and flagships, while optimizing our fleet, we are continually assessing and leveraging the opportunity with the tourists. In addition, the response to our new modern luxury stores from Japanese consumers has been quite positive, seen most notably in conversion in these locations. In Europe, our brand is continuing to grow rapidly through new directly operated stores, wholesale locations and comps. I mentioned the importance of our Paris flagship in raising awareness with both domestic consumers and tourists and we will continue to look for other flagship opportunities with the focus on other major European cities. Overall, we continue to believe that FY 2016 will be another year of very strong growth, with sales growing to about $125,000,000 Over our planning horizon, our goal is to achieve over $500,000,000 in sales at retail, representing a mid single digit share of the premium men's and women's bag and accessory market.
In our other directly operated Asian markets outside of China and Japan, namely South Korea, Taiwan, Singapore and Malaysia, sales were up slightly in local currency and declined in dollars. Here too, we are focused on driving productivity through our transformation initiatives. Finally, I would point out that we are seeing disparate results in our international wholesale businesses, which while small are important to growing brand awareness. In the Q1, we saw strong growth in those distributor operated locations focused on the domestic consumer, while travel retail has been impacted by mirrors in South Korea and the volatility of tourist flows globally, notably in Hong Kong and Macau. Generally, across geographies, we are on track to meet our guidance, while we continue to execute our brand transformation.
Now, I will turn it over to Jane for details on our financial results and guidance for the year ahead. Jane?
Thanks, Victor. Victor and Andre have just taken you through the highlights and strategies. Let me now take you through some of the important financial details of our 1st fiscal quarter results for the consolidated business of Coach Inc. As well as the Coach brand and Stuart Weitzman, ending with our outlook for FY 2016. Please note, the comments I'm about to make are based on non GAAP results.
Corresponding GAAP results as well as the related reconciliation can be found in the earnings release posted on our website today. Overall, our Q1 performance was consistent with our expectations. Starting with Coach Inc. On a consolidated basis, net sales totaled $1,030,000,000 for the 1st fiscal quarter compared with $1,040,000,000 reported in the same period of the prior year, a decrease of 1%. On a constant currency basis, total sales increased 3% for the period.
Gross profit totaled $697,000,000 versus $719,000,000 a year ago, while gross margin was 67.7% versus 69.3%. SG and A expenses of $532,000,000 compared to $503,000,000 in the prior year, an increase of 6%. As a percentage of net sales, SG and A totaled 51.7 compared to 48.4 percent in the year ago quarter. Operating income for the quarter totaled 100 and $165,000,000 compared to $217,000,000 in the prior year, while operating margin $1,000,000 in the quarter as compared to net interest income of $1,000,000 in the year ago period. Net income for the quarter totaled $113,000,000 with earnings per diluted share of $0.41 This included a contribution of $11,000,000 or $0.04 per share from Stuart Weitzman.
This compared to net income in the Q1 of FY 15 of $146,000,000 with earnings per diluted share of 0 point 5 by brand and starting with the Coach brand. As a reminder, all the comments I'm about to make are on a non GAAP basis. Net sales for the Coach brand totaled 943 $1,000,000,000 reported in the same period of the prior year, a decrease of 9%. On a constant currency basis, total sales decreased 5% for the period. Gross profit totaled $647,000,000 while gross margin was 68.6 SG and A expenses in the Q1 were somewhat lower than our expectations and reflected a reversal of prior year accruals as well as a shift in marketing timing.
The stronger dollar also was a benefit to expenses. As a percentage of net sales, SG and A expenses totaled 52.7 percent. Operating income was $150,000,000 while operating margin was 15.9 percent. Turning now to Stuart Weitzman. Stuart Weitzman brand net sales totaled 87 point $5,000,000 for the 1st fiscal quarter.
Gross profit for the Stuart Weitzman brand totaled $50,600,000 resulting in a gross margin of 50 7.8%. SG and A expenses were $35,500,000 or 40.6 percent of sales. Operating income was $15,100,000 representing an operating margin of 17.2%. During the Q1 of FY 2016, the company recorded charges of $13,000,000 under its multi year transformation plan. These charges consisted primarily of organizational efficiency costs and accelerated depreciation for store renovations.
In addition, the company recorded costs of approximately $11,000,000 associated with the acquisition of Stuart Weitzman. These actions taken together increased the company's SG and A expenses by about 23,000,000 dollars and a cost of sales by about $1,000,000 negatively impacting net income by $17,000,000 after tax or about 0 point 0 $6 per diluted share in the 1st fiscal quarter. As a reminder, we have taken the majority of our total expected transformation related charges over the last 6 quarters, totaling about $290,000,000 including rightsizing of our inventory levels. We continue to expect to incur the balance of these charges by the end of FY 2016, primarily related to global store closures and organizational effectiveness, bringing the total multi year charge to about 325,000,000 Now moving to Global Distribution. As you know, our overarching focus continues to be replatforming our stores, elevating brand perception, optimizing our store fleet and opening new locations selectively in key markets.
During the quarter and consistent with our annual guidance, there was little change in our global directly operated door count. As we are now including a table detailing our openings and closures by geography and brand in our press release, I'll just touch on the highlights. In total, we added 8 net Coach brand locations worldwide, all outside North America. We also opened 2 Stuart Weitzman's locations in the quarter, 1 in the U. S.
And one in Europe. Looking to the full year and starting with North America, in FY 2016, we continue to expect to close a total of approximately 20 retail our directly operated Coach brand square footage in North America to be essentially unchanged for the year. On the North American department storefront, we ended the quarter with about 975 locations, no change from the previous quarter. And in FY 2016, we still expect to open about 10 doors. Moving to China.
We still expect to open about 25 new locations for the year, closing about 5 to 10 with square footage growth of about 12% to 15% in FY 2016. In Japan, as previously announced, we will focus on our modern luxury renovations, notably in stores in and around Tokyo. We'll continue to take a portfolio approach to optimizing store base and expect about 5 closures and a 5% to 10% decline in our square footage for the year. In Europe, in FY 2016, we expect to open 5 to 10 directly operated stores for a square footage growth of 40%. In addition, we ended the first quarter with over 2 25 wholesale and multi brand locations and In our directly operated businesses in Asia, outside of China and Japan, we are focused on developing our current store base and don't expect additional net openings or meaningful square footage growth this year.
Taken together in FY 2016, we continue to expect our global Coach brand footprint across channels and geographies to be up low single digits in square footage. Closing with Stuart Weitzman distribution, we expect to open approximately 10 new directly operated locations in FY 2016. Moving to the balance sheet. Inventory levels at quarter end were $575,000,000 including $32,000,000 of inventory associated with Stuart Weitzman. This compared to ending inventory of $597,000,000 for the Coach brand in the year ago period.
Therefore, inventory declined 4% on a Coach Inc. Consolidated basis and 9% for the Coach brand, in line with net sales. Cash and short term investments stood at $1,300,000,000 as compared to $908,000,000 a year ago. Given our debt issuance in the Q3 of FY 2015 and the subsequent closure of the Stuart Weitzman acquisition, our total borrowings outstanding were approximately $900,000,000 at the end of the fiscal quarter. As previously shared, we expect to use these proceeds to cover our working capital needs in light of investments in our business and the new corporate headquarters.
Net cash from operating activities in the Q1 was $8,000,000 compared to $139,000,000 last year in Q1. Free cash flow in the quarter was an outflow of $61,000,000 versus an inflow of $99,000,000 in the same period last year. Working capital changes contributed to the majority of the decline in cash, driven by 2 as we prepared for the upcoming holiday season, store fixture prepayments for bulk procurement transformation related activities. Finally, our CapEx spending was $69,000,000 versus $40,000,000 in the same quarter a year ago. Turning now to our financial outlook for the Coach brand on a standalone 52 week non GAAP basis in FY 2016.
As our annual plans have not changed from those shared on our Q4 FY 2015 earnings call, I'll be brief. 1st on Coach brand sales, we expect to deliver a low single digit increase in constant currency in fiscal year 2016. Based on current exchange rates, currency headwinds are expected to have an approximate 200 basis point negative impact on an annual revenue growth, disproportionately impacting the first half. We are projecting a low single digit aggregate comp decline in North America with EOS pressuring comp again in the second quarter as we Q2. As previously noted, we would expect comp to improve throughout the year with the most significant inflection occurring into in the second quarter, the holiday quarter, driven by product innovation, renovated modern luxury stores and our 75th anniversary marketing initiatives.
We expect to reach positive comps in the 4th quarter. Gross margin for the Coach brand is projected to be in the area 70% on a constant currency basis, with negative foreign currency effects expected to impact gross margin by 80 to 100 basis points. SG and A expenses, net of savings, are still expected to grow at mid single digit rate in constant currency and somewhat less in dollars. Expense growth ahead of sales is reflected as increased marketing spend, transformation initiatives and higher occupancy and depreciation expenses related to store renovation and flagship project timing shifts from FY 2015 to FY 2016 as discussed previously. However, given the favorability realized in Q1, which was also driven in part by the reversal of prior year accruals, we now expect SG and A expenses to come in at the lower end of this mid single digit constant currency range.
We continue to expect at least $50,000,000 in incremental cost savings from our transformation and restructuring initiatives. Taken together, we expect operating margin to be in the mid to high teens. Interest expense for the year is estimated to be in the range of $30,000,000 to 35,000,000 dollars Finally, our tax rate is expected to be in the area of 28% for the year. The expected rate reduction on a year over year basis is primarily attributable to the geographic mix of earnings, the ongoing benefit of available foreign tax credits, the anticipated closure of certain audits and the expiration of statutes in 2016, which will significantly brand
sales
brand sales to be in the area of $335,000,000 on a dollar basis for fiscal 2016, an increase of about 10% from FY 2015, driving Coach Inc. Consolidated revenue growth to high single digits and adding about 0 point excluding charges associated with financing, short term purchase accounting adjustments, contingent payments and integration costs. As previously noted, given the lower gross margin and operating margin profile of the Stuart Weitzman business relative to the Coach brand, it will be a negative impact to consolidated gross margin rate. We expect this impact to be about 80 to 90 basis points to coaching gross margin and pressure operating margin by roughly 50 basis points in FY 16. As a reminder, fiscal 2016 will include a 53rd week in our fiscal 4th quarter, which is expected to contribute approximately $75,000,000 to $80,000,000 in incremental revenue and in earnings per diluted share on a non GAAP basis.
We still expect CapEx for FY 2016 for coaching to be in the area of $300,000,000 excluding the capital costs associated with the new headquarters, which are expected to be approximately $185,000,000 in FY 2016. There has been no change in our capital allocation policy and over the next few years, our first priority is to continue to in our business as we have a compelling opportunity to drive sustainable growth and value creation. And we're putting our capital against this opportunity. Our second priority, strategic acquisitions, is also about growth. While we have nothing planned imminently, And third, capital returns.
As I've stated before, we are committed to our dividend and expect our dividends to at least in line with net income growth as our transformation takes hold. Underpinning all three of these priorities are our guardrails for allocating capital effectively, maintaining strategic flexibility, strong liquidity and access to the capital markets. In closing, we have a clear strategy and a confident in our long term targets. Importantly, we believe that we have the resources to fund our plan while maintaining our dividend during our heavy investment period. I'd now like to open it up to Q and A.
Thank you. We will now begin the question and answer And our first question comes from Bob Drbul with Nomura Securities. You may ask your question.
Hi, good morning.
Good morning, Bob. Hi, Bob.
I just have a couple of quick questions. The first one is, when you look at the Chinese sales globally, it appears that many luxury brands are seeing declines in their business to the Chinese globally. However, you noted yours was up. What do you think is driving that? And second quick question, if I could, is within the outlet business, can you just talk about are you driving the outlet business with a higher discount rate?
Or what's the trend in full price product in there? And just maybe talk a little bit more about the success you're having there?
Good morning, Bob. I'll take the first one and then pass on to Andre for the second one on outlet. In terms of China, as you mentioned, we're really pleased to be bucking the trends that many of our traditional competitors are reporting. I have just had the pleasure of spending a week with our teams in Shanghai and Hong Kong, visited our renovated flagship stores, first on Canton Road and then at Hong Kong Plaza in Shanghai, as well as IFC in Hong Kong and was really pleased and proud of the work that the team is doing on the ground. All of those locations are being incredibly well received and our team is managing our brand incredibly well in what is of course a very turbulent environment, not only with the exchange rate fluctuations and the impact on traffic into Hong Kong and Macau, but also the domestic stock market gyrations, which are now very well publicized.
As to the Mainland itself, as we noted, our revenue has held at double digit growth with positive comps and this is very much similar levels to what we saw in the Q4. We continue to see the slowdown in Hong Kong and Macau with the Chinese as well of course as in South Korea with the impact of MERS and some slowdown here in North America due to currency fluctuations. But we have seen PRC growth in the mainland of course and in Japan and Europe more than make up for those drops in the specific locations mentioned. In the medium term, I think we can expect the MIR's impact to lessen in South Korea. In fact, we are already as we head into this quarter beginning to see that, which is great news.
And over the medium term, we also expect a better Hong Kong Macau trend, especially in Q4 as we anniversary the slowdown there. I hold. I'll now pass on
to Andre for your question on outlet. Hello, Bob. For outlet, well, first, in general, we've been pleased with the sequential improvement of the business there from the last quarter to this one. Discount rates are actually slightly lower than they were last quarter. So we're making progress there with more elevated product and a higher share of Stuart Viva's design product.
And in terms of our your question on full price products and outlets, actually the proportions remained similar to what it's been historically, actually slightly lower. So there's slightly more made for outlet product selling through at the moment.
Great. Thank you very much.
Thank you. Our next question comes from Joan Pason with Barclays. You may ask your question.
Hi, good morning, everyone. Good morning, I think you talked a little bit about the under $300 handbags comping positively now. And I was wondering if you could just give a little more detail in terms of what percentage of the business that segment is, when the last time it was that it comped positive? And then in hand with that, you also mentioned that logo is still down year over year. So just when you expect that piece of the business to stabilize?
Sure. So essentially, our above $400 business, as I mentioned in my prepared remarks, was up in units. We've seen a very good growth between $400 $600 a significant comp growth there. About $600 our assortment has been a little lighter than it was last year. So there we saw a drop actually in which resulted in a drop in AUR of about $400 And that's an opportunity we see for in the future for 1941 as we launch that label.
Now below $300 we've actually filled gaps in the assortment. So there we've seen a significant increase and we think that bodes really well actually for the holidays where we had gaps as we know last year.
And just in terms of the logo business as well?
The logo business has continued to decline as we focused on leather, capitalizing on a trend in the market that's moving more towards non logo products. So it's down this quarter. I don't see that trend changing significantly over the next couple of quarters.
Okay, great. Thank you.
Thank you. Our next question comes from Anna Bijra from Oppenheimer. You may ask your question.
Great. Thanks so much. Good morning and congrats on seeing nice progress.
Thank you. Thank you.
I guess a question on the comp improvement. Is that being driven more by outlet versus full price? Or should we think both channels are performing about equally right now? And as we think to the positive comp inflection in the Q4 of 2016, should one channel lead the other? Thanks so much.
Sure. So the so both we've seen improvements in terms of consequentially in both channels. It has been led by retail, where there we've seen good trends in both conversion and traffic improving sequentially. ADT average transactions have remained positive in retail. We've seen a similar trend in outlet, but a bit more muted than in retail.
Thank you. Our next question comes from Ike Boruchow with Wells Fargo. You may ask your question.
Hi, good morning everyone. Thanks for taking my question. Good morning, Ike. I just wanted to quickly talk about the North America comp, specifically the EOS impact, just 1.5% this quarter, well below last quarter's impact. I would have thought there would have been a larger drag this quarter.
Maybe, Victor, can you comment if anything changed during the quarter? Meaning, did you expect a greater negative impact before the quarter started and maybe pull back less for some reason? Any color would be helpful.
No, very much per our plan. Like last year this time we had 13 events. We've been very much planning about 2 per month and that's very much what we did this quarter as you heard in Andre's prepared remarks with 7 events. So very much per our expectations, nothing different.
And Ike, for Q2, you'll recall we're overlapping 10 events in the prior year fiscal quarter. So we called out that we'd expect the impact to be slightly less in Q2.
Got it. Thank you.
Thank you. Our next question comes from Michael Binetti with UBS. You may ask your question.
Hey, guys. Good morning. Do you guys have a really heavy mix of your annual earnings that happened during the holiday. So obviously, the stock takes a lot of cues from trends in the Q2. You've obviously been very clear about guiding us to the biggest sequential improvement of the year happening in the Q2 in the comps for North America.
Obviously, you've talked a few times about identifying a few gaps in the assortment with the bags under 300. But can you give us a little bit more of thinking of how you build up your plan to get to that bigger step up because I think it will be pretty meaningful for the path of the stock from here?
Sure. So it's really about the 3 pillars that we've been talking about for the past few quarters coming together. So products, marketing obviously and distribution. In terms of product, as I mentioned earlier, we have filled gaps in the below $300 bracket, which I think were an opportunity last holiday season. So a lot more in both channels, frankly, retail and outage, a lot more of an offering in the below $300 bracket in we've also added, I think, a lot more emotion and elevation at the same time in our stores, a big focus on gifting.
I mentioned shearling, metallics, glitter, etcetera in full price and outlet. The other thing in outlet is we had a gap. We know an opportunity last year in gift sets below $100 We tripled our investment in that area. So I think we're positioned much better in terms of product certainly than we were a year ago. We're also building on the momentum of all the marketing activities that started with the runway show.
That continues to gather momentum. And obviously, we're continuing to see strength in our modern luxury renovations. So we think the 3 pillars are going to be solely coming together this quarter. Also, I should note that we've seen the momentum that we saw in Q1 has continued into October, so that we think bodes well for the holiday.
If I could follow-up with one quickly, the comment that we still expect comps to go positive by Q4. Can you talk about with the outlet driving so much of the North America comp, what do you need to happen between today and Q4 at the outlets? You said they're still negative, but improving sequentially at a slower pace than retail. What do you think which of the maybe the components traffic conversion need to accelerate the most to get to the overall North America comp positive by Q4?
So we think that conversion is the metric that's going to be improving the most. We've maintained positive ADTs. We see that continuing, but conversion is the metric that we're expecting to improve sequentially in both channels the
most. Thank you.
Thank you. Our next question comes from Oliver Chen with Cowen and Company. You may ask your question.
Hi, thanks for the comments and the product is looking really, sequentially improved. Okay. Regarding the outlet side, sure. The outlet side, we're just curious about the progress in the renovations and learnings that you've had on your earlier renovations versus the ones you're doing going forward and any changes you're making kind of to the store experience there and how you sort store its and layout store its new product?
Yes. So we've seen on the asset front, 1st in product, an increasing share of Stewart Design products, and that's been impacting performance obviously. The modern luxury renovations that we've completed so far have been outperforming the rest of the change. So that's given us confidence to continue to deploy that plan. The one learning I'd say is in the men's renovations men's modern luxury renovations and outlet where we've seen less of an impact candidly.
And I think that comes from the fact that the men's doors are more recent doors. The modern luxury doesn't look as different as it does from the core doors. So our focus is going to be more on our core outlet doors in terms of renovations.
Yes. Oliver, we talked about it last quarter, but one of the learnings that we did call out last quarter was just that our lighter touch renovations were not yielding the improvement that we had expected. And so we've moved away from essentially the paint and carpet, if you will, to actually doing a little heavier renovation, which gets us the lift as we replace fixturing. The good news is that our overall cost of renovations through bulk purchasing and procurement activities has gone down. So we're able to accommodate that shift while lowering our total capital cost expectation for our fleet renovation.
And on the outlet side, are you you're pleased with the renovations and kind of how the customer has been shopping the newer stores there?
Very much so, Oliver, and I would say globally.
Okay. Thank you. Best regards.
Thank you.
Thank you. Our next question comes from Randy Konik with Jefferies. You may ask your question.
Yes. Thanks a lot. Quick question on the outlets again. So I think you talked about the logo penetration in full price down to about 5%, but I think you said 30% in outlets. So is that logo penetration, is that still a headwind then in the outlet division?
And strategically, how do you think about where you want the logo penetration to be in outlets versus where they are in full price? And if I could just add one more, are you seeing any differences in product trends in the wholesale channel from what you're seeing in the retail channel at current time? Thanks.
Yes. So the logo penetration has dropped in outlet. It's at about 30% now versus roughly 40% a year ago. It's an integral part of the business. It's obviously become smaller than it was a few years quarters ago.
We see that continuing to decline slowly, while leather has been comping positive in outlets. And that's something that I think is very consistent with Coaches core equities. We stand ready for leather. So the wholesale question, I may let Victor answer.
I didn't get the question.
I'm just curious if you're seeing any differences in product trends or product reception or what people are buying in your wholesale channel distribution relative to the retail channel distribution, just curious there?
No, not dramatically. Of course, we're seeing a slightly higher promotional cadence within the wholesale channel in general, a little bit more price competition, which is leading to the below 300 bucket having a higher penetration overall. But in general, I would say no really dramatic differences.
Helpful. Thank you. Thank you.
Thank you. Our next question comes from Brian Tuncay with Royal Bank of Canada. You may ask your question.
Thanks. Good morning, everyone.
Good morning, Brian.
I guess, two questions. I know you guys do a lot of regarding where their spending is? Are their closets full of hand bands already? Or are they just waiting for more newness? And then on the store closing side, can you talk about maybe what kind of transfer rate you're seeing or maybe the web shopper?
What are you watching to see what the right footprint maybe is for your full price business? Thanks very much.
I'll take the first question and then pass on to Andre in terms of the store closings here, specifically in North America, Brian. In terms of the consumer survey, it's very much as you mentioned. We see consumers a little bit on the sidelines. Obviously, there's a lot of macro and currency and other issues that are impacting global trends today. But as we've mentioned over the last call and again, I think are seeing in our most recent quarterly survey, consumers are looking to be inspired and they're looking for newness and innovation.
Our transformation is very focused on that and we're incredibly excited of course by the progress that we're seeing especially through our full price channels. Andre maybe on the Sure.
So we've seen very minimal transfer of sales from closed doors. The doors we closed are primarily smaller doors that had limited material impact on the rest of the chain. And look, we'll continue to evaluate and optimize our fleet as leases come up. We'll make decisions on continuing on closures. So that's an ongoing process.
We are closing about 22 doors this year, as Jane mentioned. So that is on that's in the plans.
Our final question comes from Erinn Murphy with Piper Jaffray. You may ask your question.
Great. Thanks. Good morning and congrats on the progress.
Thank you, Erinn.
I was
hoping you guys clarify the October trends. I mean, you mentioned in North America improving quarter to date. What have you seen in China just given that October encompassed Golden Week? And then I guess the follow-up on the wholesale side the business. I would just love to hear how department stores are managing their open to buy dollars in the handbag category overall.
And then there's a lot of concern on traffic in department stores broadly, both apparel, footwear, did that vary much for you throughout the quarter? Thanks.
Thanks, Aaron, for your 42 questions.
I'll pass that over to Victor.
And I would say we haven't seen any change from the previous quarter to this quarter in any one of those areas, very consistent really. PRC has continued along the same lines as we saw last quarter. And I would say that in the department stores, very consistent as well.
Okay. Thank you, guys.
Thank you.
Thank you all. That concludes our Q and A. It is now 9:30 market's opening. I will now turn it over to Victor Luis for some concluding remarks. Victor?
Thank you all
for listening. I just want to close by thanking and congratulating our Coach teams globally. Thanks to their hard work, their perseverance and of course their excellence and execution, our transformation remains very much on plan. We're pleased with the progress that we're seeing here in North America, of course, with the sequential improvement in our business, which has been led as we have always expected by our full price channel where we have put the greatest investment in focus. And what is a rather turbulent global environment for the category are balanced and strong franchise in Asia, as well as our greenfield opportunity in Europe is serving us well.
And lastly, I'm excited by the emerging trends that we've seen at the Stuart Weitzman brand, not only thanks to the very strong product foundation that they have, but also thanks to the very strong and growing momentum that we're seeing with them in Asia. So all bodes well for us for the rest of the fiscal year. Thank you.
This does conclude the Coach earnings conference. We thank you for your participation.